1999 Buick Regal GS with turbo 113,000 miles. Drove the car 120 miles with no problem the next morning several short runs of 10 miles or less. I parked the car for about 3 hours drove about 3 miles, and turned it off for 20 minutes would not start. The alternator is 6 months old along with the battery (both replaced at the same time). I took the battery to have it tested showed only 11 amps out of 600cca. The battery was replaced. The car started and ran great for about a week ( small runs maybe 6, less than 10 miles each time. The same thing happened with no indication of a problem drove to the store parked for about 20 minutes battery dead jump-started. I had to keep the engine running high RPM to get home almost did not make it about 4 miles. The charging light did not come on.

This is only the start, I have a problem with the radio and power windows. When the car is in ACC mode the car radio and windows work. When the car is in run neither works. I can always turn the car off and it must be turned off then to ACC to work windows and doors and then run to restart.

I need a new idea the research runs from a bd ground to buy a new car. HELP

I'll assume that you have made sure the battery terminals are tight, but not so tight that they strip off. If I'm wrong, let me know.

Next I'll start by suspecting the ignition switch is a little out of sync with the key position, possibly leaving something powered when it should be off and not allowing accessory stuff to run when the key is turned to [RUN].

Try this:

1. Engine idling in park
2. Attempt to roll down a window that is up and that will roll down when you switch to [ACCESSORY]
3. Keep pushing [DOWN], don't stop
4. Slowly turn the key towards [OFF]

We're looking for the window to start rolling down before the engine shuts off

I replaced the alternator and the battery, the battery 1 week ago. I tried to start the car and it still acts like the battery is dead. I am unable to start the vehicle at this time.

What does it do? Nothing? Cranks slow? Describe the problem or record it for us.

The alternator and battery had been replaced about 9 months ago. This is over the last 3 weeks. We drove the car 120 miles and then parked for the evening. The next morning we drove 2 places about 20 miles total, and then the car sat for about 3 hours. We then went about 2 miles and parked for about 20 minutes when we came out it was dead. We tried to start it by jumping same thing would turn over real slow but not start like a dead battery. A guy saw us sitting with the hood up and had a jumper box he put it on and it started when he found good ground. Drove it about 2 miles and stopped when we turned into the parking place. The next day I took the battery to Walmart ( where we purchased it) they tested it and said the number 2 cell was dead and only read 11 of 600 Amps. They replaced the battery and all was well for about 5 days. We drove the car with no problems then we went to the store about 3 miles away parked for about 20 minutes and then the same thing no start acted like a dead battery. I had a jumper unit and put it on the first 2 times I tried it no go. I changed the position of the ground and it started. I had to ride the brake and rev the engine to get it home. I thought it was the alternator since unless I am wrong the car should run with no battery if the alternator is good. I replaced the alternator yesterday and tried again it still acts like the battery is dead even with a charged battery box.

I have since taken the fuses under the hood out and cleaned what looked like a film buildup on the fuse blades ( 60 amp starter fuses). I also removed the radio, and window fuses from the passenger-side fuse box. I thought my problems with those might hold it down. I never had any indication from the idiot light that the alternator was not charging. The other thing I found was the first battery (original) had the water in it way down I refilled it with distilled water.

I just checked the battery voltage it is 8.29 volts, but I have tried several times to crank it with the battery box. What else do you need I can do most checks for voltage. I have a multimeter and test light.

I appreciate all the help and the quick response.

This strikes me as an overcharging situation.

I'd like to see what the voltage is while it is idling.

A couple of thoughts on what you wrote:

Not necessarily. There needs to be some battery power there to cause the alternator to charge. Also, the battery helps with surge demands. On my 1997 LeSabre, for example, if the battery is toast but it runs, if you're lucky, you can put it in gear and drive it . . . but if you find yourself going like 15MPH and you press the brake pedal, it will usually stall. This is because the brake light bulbs take a bit of electricity, the voltage drops a bit, and the alternator can't react quickly enough when it is spinning slowly. Same car and same situation, give it just a little gas to get it a little above idle and it is fine.

The battery box can only do so much. With that 8.29 volt battery there, it is sapping power from the battery box while it is hooked up.

Could be a sign of overcharging.

I just about never hear of a battery low on water any more these days, and interestingly, this can be a sign of overcharging.

That might be almost all that you need. It needs to start and run. To start with, you need to charge the battery if it will take a charge. I would charge at around 10-amps with an auto-shutoff automotive battery charger for 24 hours. After this, try to start it. You might need the jump box as well if the current battery is in bad shape. Once it is running, check the voltage with your meter with every accessory turned off, then again with everything turned on. That will tell us a lot.

For what it'* worth: I have had great luck with Walmart batteries for more than 30 years. I get the Everstart Maxx, I get five years out of every one, and they always fail gracefully except for a couple of times where the positive terminal stripped out thanks to GM'* stupid double-terminal post nonsense. I say all of this because what you are describing tells me that something else is broken on your car.

I was finally able to get it started with a jump from a running car. The engine idled fine but about 20 minutes in the alternator belt started eating itself. I turned it off and will get a new belt and have Walmart check the battery. The only strange thing is the power windows worked with the engine running. I still have the radio and HVAC fuses out. I also checked the alternator while running and it showed 13.89 volts. This is a new alternator. I think you are right the old one was overcharging. I will post after I replace the belt and have the battery checked. Thanks again for all your help.

I replaced the alternator and battery. Walmart checked the old battery but it showed 10.32 volts 133 of 600 CCa and bad chemistry. I replaced the alternator drive belt and battery. I checked the battery it was showing 12.87 and with the car running the alternator showed 13.58 volts at the battery. The car started with no problems. I hope this fixes the problem. The parts store did not check the alternator but just replaced it. The new battery was not used on the old alternator. I think you were right the battery was overcharged. Thanks for all the help. I will let you know in about 2 weeks how things are going. Thanks again.

Crossing my fingers!