97 Buick LeSabre UIM fix, final steps...
#1
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Working on a '97 LeSabre. The symptons were missing coolant, strange noises from engine, occasional stalling.
After new LIM gasket and UIM replacement, elbow replacement, water pump replacement, and thermostat, little repair needed on little black hose connections, but now everything else back together.
I have now changed the spark plugs and drained the oil.
I read somewhere that I should first fill it with cheap thin oil like 5w-30, unbolt and pull out the connector to the ignition control module , and crank the engine for several ten second periods, allowing the starter to cool for a minute between each period. This is to circulate fresh oil to the bearings and to flush residual coolant into the pan. Then pull the drain plug and drain the oil again.
Is this important or necessary? And if so, how do I get to this connector to the ignition coil module?
Is there other things I should do before adding new coolant, a new oil filter, connecting the battery and starting it up?
Thanks for any help!
p.*. this is my first time
After new LIM gasket and UIM replacement, elbow replacement, water pump replacement, and thermostat, little repair needed on little black hose connections, but now everything else back together.
I have now changed the spark plugs and drained the oil.
I read somewhere that I should first fill it with cheap thin oil like 5w-30, unbolt and pull out the connector to the ignition control module , and crank the engine for several ten second periods, allowing the starter to cool for a minute between each period. This is to circulate fresh oil to the bearings and to flush residual coolant into the pan. Then pull the drain plug and drain the oil again.
Is this important or necessary? And if so, how do I get to this connector to the ignition coil module?
Is there other things I should do before adding new coolant, a new oil filter, connecting the battery and starting it up?
Thanks for any help!
p.*. this is my first time
#2
Retired
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Nah, let it run with the cheap oil in it for a few minutes, then drain it out, put fresh oil in and a new filter. Done.
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2002 *-10 5.7 V8
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2011 Chevrolet Tahoe PPV
#3
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But....now has a squealing sound (belt side).
I have not driven it yet.
#4
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Spray silicone on the belt to see if the noise goes away...if coolant was leaking from the pump, could have saturated the belt.? ..is belt cracked? Replace....
Yeah, a little bit of overkill on the potential coolant in oil....just start it, run it like Mike says, than do an change with filter...
Make sure you got all the air out....that doesn't happen until that therm opens...that'* why those Lisle funnels are good for the GM engines...
Yeah, a little bit of overkill on the potential coolant in oil....just start it, run it like Mike says, than do an change with filter...
Make sure you got all the air out....that doesn't happen until that therm opens...that'* why those Lisle funnels are good for the GM engines...
Last edited by Tech II; 02-09-2017 at 02:58 PM.
#5
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Spray silicone on the belt to see if the noise goes away...if coolant was leaking from the pump, could have saturated the belt.? ..is belt cracked? Replace....
Yeah, a little bit of overkill on the potential coolant in oil....just start it, run it like Mike says, than do an change with filter...
Make sure you got all the air out....that doesn't happen until that therm opens...that'* why those Lisle funnels are good for the GM engines...
Yeah, a little bit of overkill on the potential coolant in oil....just start it, run it like Mike says, than do an change with filter...
Make sure you got all the air out....that doesn't happen until that therm opens...that'* why those Lisle funnels are good for the GM engines...
How do I get it on?
#6
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The same way you took it off?
There should be a diagram of the belt routing on the radiator support...if there isn't, draw the way it is on, before removing....
Certain years, the belt easily comes off....in others, the belt loops through a bracket......basically rotate the tensioner to loosen the belt to slide it off the pulley.......If the belt is retained by a bracket, you remove the rf wheel, and go though the wheel well....between the bracket and the block there is a spacer......there is a stud that goes through the bracket/spacer into the block...remove the stud....then tap out the cylindrical spacer....with the spacer removed, the belt now comes out....after putting the belt back on, sometimes the spacer doesn't go back in easy....Pry the bracket outward with a pry bar, and it slips back in...insert stud and then wheel....
There should be a diagram of the belt routing on the radiator support...if there isn't, draw the way it is on, before removing....
Certain years, the belt easily comes off....in others, the belt loops through a bracket......basically rotate the tensioner to loosen the belt to slide it off the pulley.......If the belt is retained by a bracket, you remove the rf wheel, and go though the wheel well....between the bracket and the block there is a spacer......there is a stud that goes through the bracket/spacer into the block...remove the stud....then tap out the cylindrical spacer....with the spacer removed, the belt now comes out....after putting the belt back on, sometimes the spacer doesn't go back in easy....Pry the bracket outward with a pry bar, and it slips back in...insert stud and then wheel....
#7
Senior Member
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Are you sure it'* a squealing sound and not a chirping sound? While the engine is running take the oil fill cap off. If there is suction and noise goes away then there is a problem with your PCV valve.
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