Tip for when you torque the bolt back on is to use a jack stand or block of wood (I used a 4x4 of the correctly length) to support the extensions bars since you have to use extension bars to get the torque wrench out from under the fender (unless you can put the car up on a lift). This helps so you can torque it by yourself.

Have you changed the crank sensor out? Interested in knowing if you solved the problem.

Yes, I changed the crank sensor out a week ago. Really was not that bad of a job. I also checked the cam interruptor while I had the balancer off. Holding good.

Sorry I have not replied, I could only drive the car on Monday. It snowed the rest of the week and I had to drive the truck. I did drive it in today, and did my test drive to the top of the pass the next day after replacing the crank sensor. It has not stalled yet, so we will see.

Any luck with your issues?

Doug

Sounds good. No, I have checked and rechecked and can not find any fault. Even put the old ICM back on, no change. New reman computer, no change. I am thinking about putting the old crank sensor back on and see what happens. I have replaced the crank sensor twice but both are AutoZone Durallast; perhaps these Duralasts are not so great? I am out of ideas.

Wow, I don't know what to say. I have no idea on your car. Mine is not fixed. I stalled on me on the way home tonight. Just died at 65 mph. I was able to restart while rolling and as usual no CEL. I too have used the Duralast sensors. This is what Autozone and CarQuest seem to sell. I can't believe that all of them are bad. I have used them on my other vehicles without one issue. I would think at least one of them would set the CEL. I know in my case, the CEL will light up if the sensor is unplugged. I guess it is a possiblity. I just hate throwing parts at the problem. This engine only has 73,000 miles. Anyway, not sure where to go next. Kinda stewing on it. Good luck.

Doug

OK, time to sit down and note conditions of what is happening. I know at the start of this thread you mention the car had a lost of power after changing out the cam interrupter. By the way, your 92 has the same computer as my 93 so I can provide scans of the wiring from my GM shop manual if you need them. You can actually back probe the connector at the computer to check for the presence of the cam signal sent to the PCM by the ICM. When the engine running and just just a standard voltmeter it will just see 5 volts, or a little less than 5 volts (the manual just says varies) with the engine off and the cam sensor off of the magnet, it sees 5 volts.

Anyway, back to what I said. Time to sit down and make notes of what the conditions are when the stall occurs and if you still have the lost of power note that as well. Maybe with the list we here can help to figure out this problem. Does it stall climbing a hill or only when descending after climbing the hill and letting up on the accelerator, those kinds of things. Also list the things you have done, sensors changed out, tests conducted. I know we can lick this just as I will lick my Code 18 problem.

The loss of power was just an annoyance while addressing the stalling issue. It was caused by the cat being plugged up. That issue is solved and the car has plenty of power.

My current issue is back to the random stalling. It has stalled on me at all speeds except idle, but mostly does it a highway speeds. This is probably because my commute is pretty much all highway. It seems to stall once the engine is hot. After it stalls, it will sometime start right away, and other times I have to wait 10 minutes or so. Yesterday, it stalled on me once at 65 MPH and I restarted it while rolling down the highway in neutral. It did not stall the rest of the way home. When it stalls it is generally when not using much throttle, and has never stalled while climbing the pass (11,500 ft). Two weeks ago it stalled while leaving the parts store at lunch (MAF sensor). This time it took me 1 1/2 hours to get the 15 miles back to work. It just kept stalling every couple of miles and was hard to start. Then that night stalled once on the 30 mile trip home and restarted while rolling. So it is really random.

This is what I have done: fuel pressure check (38-40 PSI), new fuel filter, new MAF sensor, tested MAF Sensor harness, new plugs and wires, new camshaft sensor, new camshaft interruptor (magnet - the plastic around the magnet was pretty much gone but I guess was functioning), new crankshaft position sensor.

I have been reading up on the ICM. Tonight I am going to check it out a little. I will not have time until the weekend to back probe all the connections. Tonight I will let it idle and wiggle/jar the ICM and see if it stalls or stumbles. If I have time I may take it apart and check the connections and clean it up. On another forum, this solved a guy'* issue. He had the exact same symptoms and he tried 3 shops and none found the issue in 3 months of trying. If that does not work I will back probe the connections this weekend and may replace the ignition components. If I still have the issue we will go from there. Possibly off a cliff or the the shop. I am open to any idea from anybody. If the ignition checks out then I really don't where to turn next.

Any more info on your issue? Thanks for your help.

Doug

the icm is definitely the next suspect in my opinion most subject to heat and can completely shut down the car. electronics dont like heat, im not sure why they mount these things directly to the engine. if you have a heat gun you can carefully start the engine and heat the icm up and see if it cuts out. then you know for sure, but i cant think of much else

Let me add to the ICM post. If it is a heat problem for the ICM, that does not necessarily mean you need to replace it. I would first try making sure it has a proper heat sink to the mounting plate. The heat sink compound/paste has probably dried out considering the age of the vehicle. When I took my old ICM off, I did not see what I could tell to be any heat sink compound and was told that it was dried out. I was not sure if heat sink/transfer paste was suppose to be used but all the boards were telling me yes.

You can get the heat transfer/sink compound/paste at electronic shops or maybe at the car parts shop. You won't need to use a lot, just enough to make sure heat can transfer from the ICM to the mounting plate. Take the ICM off and carefully clean the back of the ICM with perhaps steel wool (make sure no fibres get into the pins area) and clean the backing/mounting plate. Then a bit of the paste onto the back and put back in place. Considering the coils sit on top of the ICM, you do want to make sure you have a good thermal connection between the ICM and the mounting plate.

I was trying to see if it could be related to the Throttle Position Sensor or the Idle Control Valve. My sister once had a Pontiac that the engine would take a nose dive as she would accelerate. On either side of a certain point it was fine. I found that the TPS had a spot where the wiper would not make contact with the resister. The TPS on that car was just a rheostat (for the electronic people here).