1995 Buick Century Wiring in For my Bass Speakers
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
1995 Buick Century Wiring in For my Bass Speakers
Yo noice pics n stuff, i joined up just to talk about running wiring for ya mad bass in da trunk in this car. i have to admit, this car is a bitch to do stuff to really. from replacing the spark plugs to removing the floor trim and run a wire, its tough. But, i recently got more ambitious about puttin my bangers in my bangin car man. i love this car, my friends call it "The Limo". But anyway. i took apart the whole back seat of the car(it was really easy to get the back seat out) and then ran the wireing from my deck under the parking brake, and then into the door trim and into the back of the car. When i reached the back seat I ran the wire (only patch, im waiting for my kit to come in) and then sorta up the door where the seatbelt is and thenn shoved it down behind the back seat where the fabric meets the plating that holds the rear speakers, ill see if i have some pictures and it looks great, totally hidden and stuff. but now i gotta run power and ground and i need a different battery for my car because its side mount (currently). imma have to get a side and top mount to power up my bangin bangers. So I was thinking of running the power and ground through the hole where the elbow of the brake pedal goes through the fire wall, is this a good idea?
Or should I put more time and effort into doing what the other guy said who had the picture of the car with no block? *See Post 8 https://www.gmforum.com/buick-172/bu...cation-302596/
Or should I put more time and effort into doing what the other guy said who had the picture of the car with no block? *See Post 8 https://www.gmforum.com/buick-172/bu...cation-302596/
Last edited by Soft Ride; 03-17-2014 at 07:03 AM. Reason: * added link to clarify post
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zzz (05-11-2014)
#3
Senior Member
Thomas Welcome to the forum!
I created your own thread about your wiring questions. This will provide you with better visibility and faster responses.
I created your own thread about your wiring questions. This will provide you with better visibility and faster responses.
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1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
1997 Buick Pk Ave (Soft Ride) Suspension!
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WilliamE (05-11-2014)
#4
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
No idea what size wire you are needing to run, but when I ran 4GA in my 92' Cutlass Ciera (similar car, I think), I was unable to locate a preexisting location "I" felt was good, so I drilled my own and used a grommet.
"I" wouldn't recommend running wire anywhere near the gas or brake pedals in the unlikely event it somehow interferes with them at any point.
Also, they make side post adapters for such applications so you don't have to buy a new dual post battery if your current battery isn't in need of replacement.
T-Spec V12GMS and V12GML, though there are others as well. Mine is made by Streetwires, but it'* a discontinued model I bought back in 2004 for when I had my old Corsica on the road.
Best of luck.
"I" wouldn't recommend running wire anywhere near the gas or brake pedals in the unlikely event it somehow interferes with them at any point.
Also, they make side post adapters for such applications so you don't have to buy a new dual post battery if your current battery isn't in need of replacement.
T-Spec V12GMS and V12GML, though there are others as well. Mine is made by Streetwires, but it'* a discontinued model I bought back in 2004 for when I had my old Corsica on the road.
Best of luck.
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WilliamE (03-19-2014)
#6
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
8GA huh. Depending on the qualiy of the cable, that should be good for 50-60AMPS. If you are running a class D mono amp, that could equate to being able to produce up to 700RMS before more amperage than the wire can handle is reached. However, majority of amplifiers with 50-60AMPS worth of on-board fusing don't produce but 500-600RMS. Still, most will recommend the use for 4GA with such applications, so 8GA would likely be limiting you to running a amplifier capable of up to 500RMS.
But yeah, sorry I'm not of much help.
But yeah, sorry I'm not of much help.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Soooooo........Since I got my subwoofers in my car I've been really bangin. But yesterday I was bangin especially hard cuz my friend wanted to see what I could do. So something happened an now I think that I have jiggled the connections for my 4 speakers loose inside the car (not the subwoofers) with the bass. They crackle every once in a while and for a few seconds every now and then they put actual sound through. I really dont want to start taking things apart again until i know whats wrong and how to fix it so Ive come to see the masters. The speakers themselves are fine and not blown but they just wont put sound through most of the time.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Yo I'm having problems with my car that are very disappointing hahahah. So my last radio caught on fire as I was pulling it out of the dash to check some wiring and I just got my new one yesterday and went to make sure it was all wired up and running and stuff. So I put my car on auxiliary, it want actually running and i turned on my radio and all of a sudden my car went dead, like the battery is dead instantly when i have a radio plugged in and/or on. And my car was literally just running before that, I was driving it around. So I'm wondering if you guys know of any location that there could be a short cuz its not the subs, amp or sub wiring, the sub wiring has no fuse or amp to turn on because of the radio so as to pull power from the battery. So in short: Radio = no battery, No Radio = Battery :( I just want my BASS dammut