Winterizing the GXP
#1
Winterizing the GXP
I have aquired a 1990 Buick Century in mint condition and will be driving it in the winter instead of exposing my GXP to all the winter elements.
Any suggestions as to storing the car. I plan on putting some stabalizer in the fuel and running it through the engine. I wasnt sure if I should be taking the battery out for the winter or not?? The coolant temperature is good, I am good until -40 C.
Also, has anyone purchased a factory cover for their car. The cover is apparently made out of Tyvek with the Bonneville logo. I was thinking of covering it up in the garage.
Any suggestions as to storing the car. I plan on putting some stabalizer in the fuel and running it through the engine. I wasnt sure if I should be taking the battery out for the winter or not?? The coolant temperature is good, I am good until -40 C.
Also, has anyone purchased a factory cover for their car. The cover is apparently made out of Tyvek with the Bonneville logo. I was thinking of covering it up in the garage.
#2
I would suggest removing the battery if the car will not be in a heated environment. If it sits in sub-zero temps without being recharged, as it would in a car driven daily, it'* liable to freezing and going bad.
Run the car as low on gas as possible for the minimum amount of old gas to have to burn up in the spring. Run it really low (30-40 miles after the low fuel light comes on) and then in the springs add 10 gallons of premium fuel.
As for your coolant, I'd suspect that -40 should be good in the garage as that will probably stay warmer inside by 15-20* than outside if the garage is insulated and has no drafts from the outside.
Also, I'd suggest putting the car on blocks to prevent flat spots in the tires from sitting.
If you have a problem with mice or other small rodents I'd suggest a couple bars of Irish Spring soap inside the car and mothballs under the hood (soap bars will work too).
In the springs before you start the car I'd check the cabin air filter and the engine air filter for any sort of blockages.
Fuel stabilizer should be ok, but in the spring when you are going to start running the car again before you start it add a couple bottles of octane boost or do like I already said earlier.
As for the car cover, I suggest a good wash and polish before the car cover goes on so as to prevent any paint damage.
Another option/added insurance is a big cotton sheet to put between the car and the car cover.
Run the car as low on gas as possible for the minimum amount of old gas to have to burn up in the spring. Run it really low (30-40 miles after the low fuel light comes on) and then in the springs add 10 gallons of premium fuel.
As for your coolant, I'd suspect that -40 should be good in the garage as that will probably stay warmer inside by 15-20* than outside if the garage is insulated and has no drafts from the outside.
Also, I'd suggest putting the car on blocks to prevent flat spots in the tires from sitting.
If you have a problem with mice or other small rodents I'd suggest a couple bars of Irish Spring soap inside the car and mothballs under the hood (soap bars will work too).
In the springs before you start the car I'd check the cabin air filter and the engine air filter for any sort of blockages.
Fuel stabilizer should be ok, but in the spring when you are going to start running the car again before you start it add a couple bottles of octane boost or do like I already said earlier.
As for the car cover, I suggest a good wash and polish before the car cover goes on so as to prevent any paint damage.
Another option/added insurance is a big cotton sheet to put between the car and the car cover.
#3
I've always read different about the gas tank thing. Everything I have looked at says fill it up all the way. Because it will prevent water build up/reduce the amount of condensation that will be in the tank. A little bit of dry gas or w/e to keep it fresh.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
#6
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,539
Likes: 16
From: Purgatory, Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
I've always read different about the gas tank thing. Everything I have looked at says fill it up all the way. Because it will prevent water build up/reduce the amount of condensation that will be in the tank. A little bit of dry gas or w/e to keep it fresh.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
#7
Originally Posted by GXP Venom
Originally Posted by corvettecrazy
I've always read different about the gas tank thing. Everything I have looked at says fill it up all the way. Because it will prevent water build up/reduce the amount of condensation that will be in the tank. A little bit of dry gas or w/e to keep it fresh.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
IDK which way is correct, just what I have been told in the past.
#8
It’* good to keep the battery out of the cold, but there is no substitute for keeping it charged. Personally, I’d leave it on a trickle charger. I’d also leave it in the car so that the car could be started and warmed up every month or so. I don’t like the idea of the rings sitting on one spot in the cyl bore for long periods of time. Eventually the oil drains away and moisture makes its way in. Ok, I admit it’* not going to cause any big problem in 4-5 months, but I think it’* a good idea to get all the fluids flowing now and then.
#9
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,539
Likes: 16
From: Purgatory, Pennsylvania
Originally Posted by 2.3 Turbocoupe
but I think it’* a good idea to get all the fluids flowing now and then.
#10
By running it and not getting it up to temp,(driving it) you will not evaporate the moisture in the motor. To me it is better to let it sit than run it. Just my opinion. If you are worried about the rings, you could just turn it over without starting it.