I have never put anything inside the box except for the sub, lol. I have seen and heard people putting insulation or what ever kind of fill they could find, and I still liked my sealed boxes I build. I used to build them to fit the vehicles also. With may angles, now that was a HUGE PITA to figure the cuft. BUT it was all for competition and looks. That 2cuft box I built for my 15, is a regular rectangle box ( cause I didn't have that much height), and it has great low bass response, and STILL has nice tight bass. But I think the fact that it is a 15" sub and I have the power to push it ( sealed always takes more power to push than a ported box), that I am getting great sound.


All this talk is making me want to install it in a car again, it has been in storage for the past 2 years.

Never did install the damn grill on it, lol
I also just happened to have some carpet left over that matched the trunk of that car. I used to install systems on the side and also build a few boxes. So I had a few rolls of carpeting to match various interiors.


It was a DVC sub, connected to be a 2 ohm sub. This is the amp I was using.

This was during the " hook it up to see what it sounds like" stage of the install. The only pic I have of it. Too bad I didn't get any pics of my past competition installs/

that is a sweet orion...thoes things were waaaay underated

I know, lol.

That amp was rated at 2x 50 watts, hence the part of the name 250. BUT it is the HCCA part that is the trick. It was a High Current Competition Amp.

The way I had it hooked up for competition, I had 2 DVC subs, that were 2ohm each, running parallel to the amp, so the amp was seeing 1ohm, that I was then running in Mono so it was running around 0.5 ohm. That amp was rated to run up to 0.5ohm stable. I was pushing it hard enough to blow the 40 amp fuse I had installed within 12" of the amp for protection. Let'* just say I showed a few people what it was like in the truck during the competition. They ( place holding the competition) was actually using MY IASCA cd. Sure it was loud, but it was during the bass sweep, that I was blowing the fuse. Getting around 20hz ( about where you start to hear it) I had the windows just vibrating like crazy. It was actually getting painful to sit there. Not your ears but your chest, plus if you sat there enough and hit the right frequency you started to feel sick. I had so much fun with that system. Oh the good old days. As you can tell that is one of the "old school" HCCA amps, that I bought brand new, which gives you an idea how old I am and how long ago I was competing.

I called the guys at eclipse and I asked if they had any manufacturer suggested box dimensions, and he started asking me questions. He asked me if I wanted high SQ or sound pressure or something like that, so I said SQ (thinking it meant sound quality) and he said I should go with 2 cubic feet.

I'd like to go with a layout like this (the box on the slant is the amp)...but iwth 2 cubic feet it seems gigantic for a sub like that, and I cant get any dimensions to seem reasonable. What size would you all suggest going with?


What does the frequency rating of a box mean in sound quality?
I think I'm going for the 1.5 ft^3 box with the dimensions you gave me sse1990.
Thanks a lot for the the help!!

Yeah he just means Sound Quality. Easy way to figure out any dimension you have is to take that measurement, so lets say 14" and divide by 12. That will give you 1.1666666667, you then take the other 2 dimensions, do the same, then multiply all 3 of them. That way you can play with the measurements.


Here are a couple other questions.


How much height do you have from the trunk floor to the top of the rear deck ( without hitting anything and leaving room for the trunk lid supports to move), and how much width do you have ( between the shock towers). Also how far out from the back of the seat did you want this box and amp to sit. The further out you come the less trunk space you have ( if that is even a concern to you or not).


Once I have that, I can play with the numbers and give you a dimension. Also how big is the amp you want to install. There may be enough room to mount it on the side like you wanted, or you may have to mount it other wise.


Lets start by how much room you have.

I have exactly three feet between the rear shock towers (36"), and about 17" to the rear deck. I'd like to have it as far back as possible to maximize trunk space, but this doesnt really matter.

My amp dimensions are 12-5/8"W x 2-5/8"H x 10"D. It'* a small amp ( http://www.crutchfield.com/*-w5L4WYI...fp&I=236TA3401 )

Should I upgrade from my 8 guage wire while I'm in there doing all of this?

thanks a lot for the help!

One last thing. What is the physical size of the sub, particularly the depth, measure from the tip of the magnet to the bottom of the mounting surface. I want to make sure I don't give you measurements that will not let you put the sub in cause the box is too shallow.

BTW that link does not work for me

K, try the above URL now. (I just gave that link to see if I should upgrade my wire, I have 8 guage now)




So it looks like 6 19/32"...I'm heading to bed...will check back in the morning. Thanks again sse1990 for the help/

As soon as you posted that pic, I remembered that I gave you the link with it in there, shows how awake I am right now.

I will get back to you with dimensions. That is a pretty small amp, should have enough room to fit it next to the sub.

If that is the only amp you are running, the 8 gauge should be fine. When they told you to build it to 2 cuft, I am guessing that was for the outside measurements? I am still trying to get you numbers for the box and still be able to mount the amp beside it.