keep stock tweeters with aftermarket speakers? PICS
#11
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LittleHoov,
I have heard that the DelPhi/GM HU in the later years produce 50w per channel.. So they aren't that bad...
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I have heard that the DelPhi/GM HU in the later years produce 50w per channel.. So they aren't that bad...
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#12
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it seems pretty powerful ill admit...my Jensen is rated at 50 per-channel as well, but thats peak not rms, and i have yet to find an rms rating for it...but apparently the stocker is more powerful so im gonna keep it for the time being...
any more advice on the tweets? im getting the speakers in tomorrow.
any more advice on the tweets? im getting the speakers in tomorrow.
#13
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Originally Posted by LittleHoov
it seems pretty powerful ill admit...my Jensen is rated at 50 per-channel as well, but thats peak not rms, and i have yet to find an rms rating for it...but apparently the stocker is more powerful so im gonna keep it for the time being...
any more advice on the tweets? im getting the speakers in tomorrow.
any more advice on the tweets? im getting the speakers in tomorrow.
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how would i go about hooking them up? just attach the wires to the metal area around were the wiring harness plugs into? like the stock speakers were wired? red=positive red/black=negative right? and i would need a soldering gun correct? or is there any other way to do it?
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Originally Posted by LittleHoov
how would i go about hooking them up? just attach the wires to the metal area around were the wiring harness plugs into? like the stock speakers were wired? red=positive red/black=negative right? and i would need a soldering gun correct? or is there any other way to do it?
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
LittleHoov,
I have heard that the DelPhi/GM HU in the later years produce 50w per channel.. So they aren't that bad...
I have heard that the DelPhi/GM HU in the later years produce 50w per channel.. So they aren't that bad...
#18
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My considerable paint skills at work:
Now to clarify, just use the small part of wiring that SHOULD come with your new speakers, and cut the factory end off of your original wiring. wire the + and - to the pioneers that you have and twist them together, then twist the (stripped) tweeter wires onto those. So you will have three wires joined together. Then solder and electric tape them. Then just mount the pioneer as the door speaker is originally, running the tweeter wire through the little hole. This will give you the same wiring as the factory did, the tweeter in parallel with the main feed. All should be well.
Now to clarify, just use the small part of wiring that SHOULD come with your new speakers, and cut the factory end off of your original wiring. wire the + and - to the pioneers that you have and twist them together, then twist the (stripped) tweeter wires onto those. So you will have three wires joined together. Then solder and electric tape them. Then just mount the pioneer as the door speaker is originally, running the tweeter wire through the little hole. This will give you the same wiring as the factory did, the tweeter in parallel with the main feed. All should be well.
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Thanks Alec, I think thats what he was looking for
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#20
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I doubt the factory tweet is better than the one in your Pioneer, but the factory tweet is definitely aimed better. All in all, I'd recommend going a third route and getting separates. Put a tweet where the tweet goes, and put a low/mid in the larger hole. Seriously, the factory door openings are made for that setup, so why not just go with it? Can you return your Pioneers and get some separates?
Alternatively, if you do go with wiring up the factory tweet, consider disconnecting the tweet on your Pioneer if it'* too tweety.
Alternatively, if you do go with wiring up the factory tweet, consider disconnecting the tweet on your Pioneer if it'* too tweety.