To install the PAC iPAC-OEM, I need to have a CD Changer harness. But I don't. So I needed to add something similar. Since I have no intention of having an actual CD Changer in the trunk, I don't need the harness to go back there. I only want the iPod and will keep it in the glove box or console, so I just wired up a short harness in the dash.

You need to get access to connector C215 and add three wires, Audio (R), Audio (L) and Audio (Common). These are the conductors that would normally have the audio signal from the CD Changer.


But to get to it, you need to take apart the dashboard. It may look ominous, but it really doesn't take long (the second time you do it, you can do it in 15 to 20 mins.). First remove the fascia from around the instrument panel and radio.

There are two plastic rivets going up into the fascia above the instrument cluster. Press the center of the rivets upward (pics 1 & 2) and then carefully pry the rivets out (pic 3).




Pry the trim ring off the ignition switch (pic 4) notice I put electrical tape around the screwdriver blade to avoid marring the trim. Then pull out the 'cubby hole' on the left of the wheel (pic 5). Tilt the wheel all the way down and pull the panel off the dash (pic 6).




Reach behind the right side and disconnect the connector(pic7). Carefully tweek the panel to get it around the wheel and out of the way.

Next remove the defroster grille. Pry under the corner and begin pulling it up (Pic 8 ). Before you can remove the grille you need to disconnect or remove the Twilight Sentinel sensor. This is a real bear. It is supposed to untwist a quarter turn but I disconnected the connector instead - it still wasn't easy (pic 9).




Now remove the caps on the ends of the dash that but against the doors when they are closed. Grab as shown and pull (pic 10). They will pivot as shown (pics 11 & 12). Remove 8 screws. There is one on the passenger side where you just removed the end cap (pic 13).




There are 5 along the base of the windshield (pics 14 & 15). Be careful not to drop your tool or the screws down the defroster duct ! (Guess how I know about this ). The last two are above the instrument cluster on each side (pics 16 & 17).




Pry the top of the A Pillar trim and pull off then slide back (pics 18, 19 & 20).




Pry up the dash pad and remove (pics 21, 22 & 23).




Now connector C215 is accessible.




A cable is added and these contacts get installed.




This is the cable that is added (pic 24). The blue retainer on the connector, needs to be removed (pic 25). With a small screwdriver, unhook the latch on each side and then pull it out between all the wires. The connections then slip into the appropriate holes and snap in place. I had my hands full at this point and didn't get a photo. The Class 2 Serial Bus wire gets spliced in now too. It gets spliced with a purple wire. You can see it and the green wire from the new cable.




After the pins are in place, the blue retainer gets reassembled. This is a small wrestling match because of the short harness, the limited room with the windshield and having to reach over the dash and steering wheel. The first time I tried to put it in upside down. This is what it looks like in place (pics 26 & 27).

This cable and Class 2 Serial Bus wire are the main pieces that are missing if there is no CD Changer harness. All that is left is power and ground.

The PAC iPAC-OEM will now connect to this cable (plus power and ground). It is available with an adapter harness that plugs into the connector that normally plugs into the changer. I wired mine directly and didn't use the adapter harness (because I don't have the changer connector anyway).


I will add more soon. I want to push the submit button so I don't loose all this work.

This write-up is a LOT of work!

Wonderful detail!
I was curious though, is that a Torx wrench that you're using in pictures 1 and 2, or just some random implement?

The latter. It'* a 1/8" diameter rod about seven inches long. It is flat on the end so it wouldn't mark the center piece of the rivets.

Very nice detail. Can't wait to see the rest.

I just added pics 24 - 27 and some more text to the original post.

The dashboard is still apart because I am doing some other upgrades. I drove to the store to get supplies and noticed the turn signal makes an annoying pop each time the light flashes. I am guessing it has to do with the place I'm getting power. I will likely run a wire directly to the battery. I'm still investigating... the audio cable I installed is shielded so it should be okay :?: :?: :?:

The 'pop' from the turn signals had nothing to do with where I got the power. I actually used a completely separate battery to power the iPAC-OEM and the problem persisted.

I ended up wiring the audio signals so they completely bypassed the iPAC-OEM and went straight to the head unit inputs. Now it works great.

I also have an e-mail in to PAC (the manufacturer) so it'll be interesting to see what they say.

I'll have more pictures and details in a few days