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EDITED: How to upgrade an SE/SLE to SSEi audio
#32
Gain control on the camera muted it as the bass came on, but trust me, it came on strong enough to shake my rear view mirror, just like the Zilla:
Everything is in EXCEPT the rear speaker grilles with tweeters. I have to cut my rear deck to fit the tweeties. A simple job for a dremel or strong scissors without removing the rear deck.
This was tonight'* work:
Rounding the HUD control cutout for the boost gauge
Repairing the pin and wire from the donor harness (missing when I got it)
Hogging out the IP support for the boost gauge body
Backlinghting for the bass gain control working with the dash lights/dimming
Everything is in EXCEPT the rear speaker grilles with tweeters. I have to cut my rear deck to fit the tweeties. A simple job for a dremel or strong scissors without removing the rear deck.
This was tonight'* work:
Rounding the HUD control cutout for the boost gauge
Repairing the pin and wire from the donor harness (missing when I got it)
Hogging out the IP support for the boost gauge body
Backlinghting for the bass gain control working with the dash lights/dimming
#33
Originally Posted by Bonnevillan
mis-communication error. i have an OEM head unit, but obviously not an amplifier... are the head units in cars with the amplified system the same?
#34
so you need to splice a wire from front and rear speakers into the amp? i thought the amp had nothing to do with the front... sorry if im hijacking, but im interested in doing this upgrade
#35
Read my post at the top of this page. It answers your question.
All 8 wires for the factory speakers get spliced to the amp. I did this in the radio harness directly behind the radio. Very easy access.
While wire colors changed a bit from year to year in my case (93 amp in a 95), it doesn't really matter. Wire locations (pin numbers) remained the same.
The most difficult part of the job (no kidding) was running the new wires to the trunk.
Tonight I'll hack up my rear deck for the larger speaker grilles and tweeters, then wire the tweets in. That'* the only 'audible' thing left to do. Cosmetic as well. It'll be completely done by that point.
All 8 wires for the factory speakers get spliced to the amp. I did this in the radio harness directly behind the radio. Very easy access.
While wire colors changed a bit from year to year in my case (93 amp in a 95), it doesn't really matter. Wire locations (pin numbers) remained the same.
The most difficult part of the job (no kidding) was running the new wires to the trunk.
Tonight I'll hack up my rear deck for the larger speaker grilles and tweeters, then wire the tweets in. That'* the only 'audible' thing left to do. Cosmetic as well. It'll be completely done by that point.
#36
Done. Finished cutting in the rear deck for the bigger speaker grilles and tweeters. Found that the shape of the 'humps' is a little different, but not by much. Worked out pretty well.
I drove it yesterday without the tweeters, and I have to tell you it makes a HUGE difference with them last night after they were installed. Both cars now sound identical. Components are completely interchangeable between them as well, as I used factory wiring from the ground up.
I drove it yesterday without the tweeters, and I have to tell you it makes a HUGE difference with them last night after they were installed. Both cars now sound identical. Components are completely interchangeable between them as well, as I used factory wiring from the ground up.
#37
That'* really nicely done. When I got my 94, the sound was already pretty pooped out by the previous owner. I had no tweeters in the back. :( I love your attention to detail by painting the speaker covers and making it all OE-like. Do your speakers provide in-tune bass, or do they just give you a WHOMF that'* the same each time hard bass hits no matter the pitch? Hard bass specifically.
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