To flux or not to flux really depends on the wiring you are working with. Old corroded stuff will benefit from flux greatly. Whereas clean new wire won't have any noticable difference.

Be sure and clean any flux residue off after soldier though. Afterall...it is acid.

is that the ColdHeat Pro soldering gun? if so.. does it work alright? i'm thinking of getting one, but i've heard reallllly bad reviews on the regular version, but nothing about the pro version, and also where did you get it?

I get a little rattling on the drivers side door with the 6.5'* but I think one of the screws rattled right out (striped thread) Have to use something to make it stay.


I love it it now. I got the second one in last weekend and they are pretty nice sounding. The trunk is a mess as far as install goes, but I used all existing cables which werent long enough. I'll do a re-install once I get the money to buy my 2 gauge wire for my sub amp and longer beter cables.

I've heard mixed things about both. If used correctly, on smaller wires reviews seem to be pretty good.

yeah I heard even the pro can only do up to like 12 gauge wire, which should be alright becuase SAE is 12 ga. correct? wish it had a Nickel Cadmium rechargeable battery however, becuase i heard you might as well take up stock in duracell, becuase it eats double a'* like my ssei sips 93 octane like its evian...

on topic: i like your install, please get back to me about the gun if that'* what it is. i've also been thinking about changing the speakers up front, good to see a ncie write up on it, even if it is a bit different from 98

I have the ColdHeat, and to be honest with you....in theory, it works. The first few times you use it, it works as advertised. However, if you so much accidentally drop the gun, and it lands on the tip, it'* useless afterwards. They do not include extra tips either, which makes the gun little more than an LED flashlight from that point. The tips are made of some sort of conductive composite material, and they do chip easily. What is in that picture is a portable non-Coldheat iron, like a butane-powered gun or something. So what I do when I have to solder on the car is just use a corded iron plugged into an inverter.

Ok, enough hijacking...sorry 'bout that, but I had to chime in about the ColdHeat. It isn't worth the money IMO, but it is still a neat little tool if you exercise extreme caution.

Its not the cold heat gun. Its a butane powered Radio Shack Solder gun that I paid $20 bux for. It comes in handy due to its portability.

It works really well, even in the wind. You just have to turn the butane up a little.

EDIT: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search

Yea I just did this same project to my '99 Bonneville. I had to cut through a thin sheet of metal though to make my holes bigger. I had to use a jig saw and it took a little longer, but same outcome. I'll try and put up a few pictures of my job.

PLEASE start a new thread on YOUR topic...

and dont dig up old threads......thanks

Looks really good with those grilles. You should dynamat the plastic door panel. Its usually used for the metal of the door panels, but itll help with vibrations.