Speedometer Not Returning to Zero
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Speedometer Not Returning to Zero
Hey everyone,
Usually any problems I have with the Bonnie can be remedied by using the search, however this one might be new, or maybe not. Today while driving to work I noticed the speedometer was stuck at around 15 MPH. I came to a stoplight and when I took off the needle started to register, however it was off apparently by that 15 MPH (ex. if I was running 55 the speedo said 70). I got to work and restarted to car to watch the diagnostic sweep and sure enough the gauge will stop at 15 and sweep to the top? The gauge is I guess working but off. Any suggestions before I start ripping into my dash?
Usually any problems I have with the Bonnie can be remedied by using the search, however this one might be new, or maybe not. Today while driving to work I noticed the speedometer was stuck at around 15 MPH. I came to a stoplight and when I took off the needle started to register, however it was off apparently by that 15 MPH (ex. if I was running 55 the speedo said 70). I got to work and restarted to car to watch the diagnostic sweep and sure enough the gauge will stop at 15 and sweep to the top? The gauge is I guess working but off. Any suggestions before I start ripping into my dash?
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OK to add to the topic, I took the dash apart and attempted to re-seat the cluster. I am still having the same problem, although now when the diagnostic sweep occurs both the speedo and the tach do not sweep. They appear to be jerky when at the bottom of their ranges. Sometimes the gauges appear to give proper readings and then when you come to a stop they both don't bottom out where they're supposed to. I've checked relays and everything else and have come up short, I guess back out to the driveway I go for some more testing.
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There are known problems with the stepper motors in the cluster used to move the needle positions. If you have warranty, you should take your car to the dealer. This isn't something you will be able to service yourself. If you don't have warranty, you will need to replace the cluster or send it to an authorized service centre for repair.
Virtually all of the guage information is derived from the Class 2 Serial Data Bus. If even one guage is indicating correctly, the problem won't be a connection. The data bus uses a single wire in (primarily) a daisy chain configuration to share information between many different class 2 modules.
Please add your vehicle info to your profile (click on profile at the top of the page). This will help us to help you by knowing your year and trim level
Virtually all of the guage information is derived from the Class 2 Serial Data Bus. If even one guage is indicating correctly, the problem won't be a connection. The data bus uses a single wire in (primarily) a daisy chain configuration to share information between many different class 2 modules.
Please add your vehicle info to your profile (click on profile at the top of the page). This will help us to help you by knowing your year and trim level
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This is definitely something that we have seen evolve into a 00+ common issue as was mentioned above (in my case, it'* the only problem I've ever had with my car).
I solved it by picking up a cluster off of eBay. You can swap the "mileage storage module" from your current cluster and (assuming your new cluster works) you should be good to go (lots of eBay sellers offer a 7-day guarantee or so).
Do a search on here for the topic and you'll find some nice pictures that harofreek posted that show you what the "mileage storage module" is
I solved it by picking up a cluster off of eBay. You can swap the "mileage storage module" from your current cluster and (assuming your new cluster works) you should be good to go (lots of eBay sellers offer a 7-day guarantee or so).
Do a search on here for the topic and you'll find some nice pictures that harofreek posted that show you what the "mileage storage module" is
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There is always the option of a used cluster and replacing the mileage module. I'm sometimes reluctant to recommend this (although as mentioned has been successful for some members).
If you do this, there are a few things to know in advance.
1. Stepper motors were redesigned and were installed into clusters manufactured after (IIRC) early 2003. Prior to this, there was a lot more play in the gears. You may or may not get one that is better than what you have.
2. The light bulbs in these clusters (and 2K+ switches, etc) are well know for failure. There is a good chance that you will end up with a cluster that has one or more burned out bulbs. Bulbs can be replaced, but it isn't really that straight forward. The needles need to be removed, stepper motors can be damaged in the process and there is the issue of putting them back on again in the correct position.
3. There are some differences between years and trim level. For example, the DIC area of a 2000 MY cluster is different than that of (for example) a 2003. This may only be cosmetic but is something to consider. GXP clusters are not easily interchanged with others (members have tried with unresolved problems). You'll need to make sure you get the correct part.
Otherwise, the suggestion to try a used cluster is certainly a good one. You just need to know going in what to expect.
If you do this, there are a few things to know in advance.
1. Stepper motors were redesigned and were installed into clusters manufactured after (IIRC) early 2003. Prior to this, there was a lot more play in the gears. You may or may not get one that is better than what you have.
2. The light bulbs in these clusters (and 2K+ switches, etc) are well know for failure. There is a good chance that you will end up with a cluster that has one or more burned out bulbs. Bulbs can be replaced, but it isn't really that straight forward. The needles need to be removed, stepper motors can be damaged in the process and there is the issue of putting them back on again in the correct position.
3. There are some differences between years and trim level. For example, the DIC area of a 2000 MY cluster is different than that of (for example) a 2003. This may only be cosmetic but is something to consider. GXP clusters are not easily interchanged with others (members have tried with unresolved problems). You'll need to make sure you get the correct part.
Otherwise, the suggestion to try a used cluster is certainly a good one. You just need to know going in what to expect.
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Well, I guess I now am faced with biting the bullet and buying a new cluster. Now the next question, I have found a couple on e-Bay but they both have DIC'* and I have a SE without it. Are the clusters still compatible, I probably assume not or the DIC would be non-functional. You could of course make my day and tell me the are, that is one option I would really like to have and don't. Thanks for the advice guys.
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Unfortunately there is more to the DIC than just the cluster. You won't get this functionality by installing a cluster with this option. There are components in the car that are missing, along with configuration of some body control modules that won't be set to support this. You'll have to use an SE cluster.
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