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Someone please explain what just happened!!!???

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Old 06-16-2006 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 2000SilverBullet
I thought I had it licked but my wife was driving yesterday and it stalled going around a corner in idle and couldn't be restarted for 15 minutes.
My wife had to sit there and pray the whole time that it would start.

I am trying a suggestion to replace the original 6 year old GM battery, so tonight I popped in an Optima red 1000 amp battery to see if the problem persists.

......starting to **** me off.
Allow me to **** you off even more. I can't see it being the battery. When the car is running, the alternator keeps or should keep up the system voltage/power. IMO
Old 06-16-2006 | 12:36 PM
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Cheetah, ask driverjohn what happened to him on the way to WCBF05. We've seen dropouts like this caused by batteries and cables. Which is why I suggested to Paul on the phone that he try this, particularly since his battery is reaching the end of it'* lifetime anyway.
Old 06-16-2006 | 02:49 PM
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Greg....My car has "hiccuped" and that resets the run time clock. Technically it'* a stall out.

All wire routing and battery/cable related.

These cars are very electrically sensitive when they get that way..it can drive you nuts finding it.
Old 06-16-2006 | 03:48 PM
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Like I said IMO. It does not make electrical sense in my head, but then again were taking about a Bonnie and not me. Sorry Paul, I hope that battery works and I will keep this in mind. Y'all have a lot more time under the hood than me.
Old 06-16-2006 | 04:07 PM
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For the record I just replaced my battery due to it not holding a charge with accessory on for 5 minutes. I never had any gremlins like this but electricity is a fickle thing, I've seen some wierd stuff even with just loose intermittant grounds.
Old 06-16-2006 | 04:20 PM
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I can see where a weak battery could cause problems. The alternator, unlike the old generators, puts out an alternating current, which is changed to pulsating direct current via the diodes. Part of the battery'* job is to smooth out those ripples into nice clean D.C. If it doesn't, some of those pulses could find their way into the serial data cables and confuse the computer.

I'm still waiting for my daughter'* boyfriend to find his paperwork. He'* moved a couple of times since his problem, so they're packed away....somewhere. The other side of the battery issue is that his car (and thus the battery) was virtually brand new when he had the problem.
Old 06-16-2006 | 04:57 PM
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Allow me to "**** in the wind" and please bear with me on this. My cousin had a similar experience with his Durango. His oil level switch puked and so the computer killed his motor. I did not ask him about it not wanting to crank, this was a while ago, but if your getting this problem going around the corner and the car is 6 yrs old, maybe. And if that'* the case, would you get a code or just a light on the dash? Just trying to help and learn at the same time.
Old 06-16-2006 | 08:55 PM
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Oil pressure is zero before a crank. It will kill the car, but it will not prevent a start.
Old 06-16-2006 | 09:44 PM
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Not preassure, fluid level in the crank.
Old 06-16-2006 | 09:50 PM
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Gotcha. Long day. Ok, counter this:

After the stall, the car is still. Oil level stabilizes. Why no restart for 15 minutes?


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