I'm sure you'll be there waiting for me Matt. See you on Tuesday. I'll be the one looking for the Rocket fuel.

Looking through the TSBs the other day - I came across this one issued way back in 2000.

Ignition Switch - Intermittent No Start

File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories

Bulletin No.: 00-08-49-015

Date: November, 2000
Subject:
Intermittent No Start/No Crank
(Replace Ignition & Start Switch Assembly)

Models:
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora

2000-2001 Pontiac Bonneville
Condition
Some customers may comment that the ignition and start switch assembly in the above listed vehicles may not operate properly resulting in an intermittent no start/no crank condition.

Cause
This condition may be due to plastic particles interfering with the electrical contacts of the ignition switch assembly.

Correction
An improved ignition switch assembly, P/N 25721650, is now available from GMSPO.

Refer to the Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual for replacement procedures.

Hmm.. that might make sense Archon.
Doesn't explain why it would kill the engine...or maybe it would. :? Same effect as turning off the key. :?: ....but then why does it come back after a 5-10 min wait :?:

If the PCM doesn't fix it, I'll do the switch next.

Yeah, those things are what makes it all confusing. It would seem that once the connection was made, it would stay that way until the key was removed. Can think of things that would cause one or the other, but not both - at least as a single cause. Plus, my daughter'* boyfriend'* car that had the problem was a 2002, and this TSB applies to 2000 & 2001. Let'* hope the PCM does it!

Paul, Did you ever look further into the underhood fuse block for anything loose? I know you & Bill Wren had mentioned that something in the fuse block may be suspect. There was a thread a few years back where the guy had similar symptoms and it turned out to be a problem up front with that fuse block. The car would lose power & shut down for no apparent reason.

I checked but it doesn't seem loose. How tight do those three screws have to be :?:

I'd like to know what the problem was with this guys fuse block. :?

Did it start after about 10 minutes?

On our way down to WCBF06 when we first left home, the car stalled again one time.
Then two days later, it did it again about 4 times in a row.

We raced on Friday and it did it once on the way back to the KOA on the main highway....not fun in the dead dark of night with a very busy freeway.

All day today it was great and I posted a new best of 13.5 sec 1/4 mi time.

We went back to the KOA after the race today for barbeque and campfire awards and halfway back to the hotel after about a 5 minute drive it throws the SES light.
Finally a code.
But I don't know what it means, let alone if it is even related to the engine kill, no start, no crank problem.

Code P1133 - HO2S/O2S Insufficient Switching Sensor 1 or Bank 1 Sensor 1.
WTF :?:

I had a similar code on my car (sorry don't remember the exact code) when the Borg/Warner )2 sensor I used was going bad. The only time I experienced a symptom before the code was at highway speeds. It acted as if the engine had stopped running - stepping on the gas gave no change of speed. Letting off the gas then stepping on it hard, or just stepping on it hard took care of the problem. It never did stall completely, however and I didn't have any starting issues.

1133 is bad front 02 sensor. Did you use race gas or some other additive for the track? Leaded gas will do this to an 02 sensor.