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2000-2005Discuss your 2000-2005 Bonneville SE, SLE, and SSEi
Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.
I keep going back and forth as to whether I want to put this kind of money into this car - but every time I drive it - I say, yeah I do!
So... there seems to be a problem with starting the car that is "linked" to how cold it is outside.
Every time I try to start the car and it is under 40 F or so - the car starts up NO problem.
However, if it is 40 F +, then I turn the key - nothing happens for a 2-3 seconds - then the Service Engine Soon light comes on and then after 2-3 seconds the red battery icon appears and the car dings 5 times - I turn the key and nothing...
I turn the key off - and start all over again - the Service Engine Soon light comes on after a few seconds, followed by the red battery icon after a few more seconds - then I turn the key and it may or may not start.
Sometimes it starts after 2 or 3 tries, sometimes it takes about 4 or 5+ tries.
But like I said, this ONLY happens when the outside temp is above 40 F or so - if the temp is lower than that - it starts off right away.
Help!
please have your battery checked for a dead cell, at warner temps dendrites from the plates on old or poorly maintained batteries will short it out. When it’* cold, they contract and provide you a great battery. Go to auto store and they’ll check it free! Good luck! 👍🍀
I would try flashing it with the latest PCM software. Even if it has the latest I would still do a full install. That thing seems to have a programming issue.
The videos showed that power was picking up slowly in ign position and starting was delayed. I’d advise going through both your fuse blocks, one under back seat with battery and one under hood on drivers side. I’d pull each fuse and relay one at a time and push it back in. You may even do it a few times each to clean the contacts. When you pull each relay, knock it a few times against the frame or something solid to shake off any oxidation on contacts. Then reinstall them. The one relay of importance is the IGN 1 relay under your hood. That may need replaced? It’* the one that seems to be picking up slowly? I’ll se if I can paste some wiring diagrams below...
The keys 🔑 in these cars are chipped and there is a reader in the ignition switch that ties to the theft deterrent system. If the relays don’t fix it, I’d be looking at the theft deterrent system as it can stop the car from cranking and kill power. When I watched the videos, it would have been nice to see the theft deterrent LED that is on the dash near emergency flasher. That shows status of the key reader when ignition is on. You may want to show that in conjunction with your videos. Show the light before and after each effect you video. That will help me diagnose your system.
I do have the "popular" wet passenger side foot-wells, mostly the rear foot-well, but occasionally the front as well - would that have effected the under the rear seat fuses...?
As far as the theft deterrent LED - do you mean the "Theft Lock" red flashing LED on the radio itself - I can not see any LED near the emergency flasher.
Intermittent nature seems like wire or ground fault?
I did watch the new video, doesn’t sound like good power is getting through the start circuit. Given the car has wet interior floors, that moisture can fail connectors and hard power connections. I’d start tracing down power and ground at the ignition and start relays. Usually the really cool has two prongs for the coil together with switches legs on other end. The IGN 1 and Start relays are the key ones. I’d also check the ground under the back seat. Mine had to be replaced under similar conditions? It attaches to the floor pan under back seat, just follow the negative cable, it’* a few feet away. Any loss of power or ground will cause bus failures and relay drop outs. Give this a try and let me know how it goes?
06-05-2020, 06:10 PM
Battery needs replaced- dead cell likely
