Need play by play of rear rotor/pad install
#1
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![torero500 is on a distinguished road](https://www.gmforum.com/images/reputation/reputation_pos.gif)
![Default](https://www.gmforum.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Would someone who has done this job please provide a quick run down of the steps to remove the rear rotors and pads and install new? My front rotors are new with new pads already installed. I've already bought new rotors and pads for the back.
Basically, I need the steps after I've got the rear side jacked up and the wheel off.
Thanks for the help!
Basically, I need the steps after I've got the rear side jacked up and the wheel off.
Thanks for the help!
#2
RIP
True Car Nut
#3
Member
Posts like a V-Tak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![torero500 is on a distinguished road](https://www.gmforum.com/images/reputation/reputation_pos.gif)
![Default](https://www.gmforum.com/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks. Did the job myself today, and I can't believe how great the car brakes after this job. I had done the fronts, but still had vibration and pulsating pretty bad when braking on anything over 30 mph. Now the car is braking like a brand new car, smooth as silk and really quick stopping power. It'* like magic what some new rotors and pads will do.
About the only clarification I'd make to the list from the link above is that when you first have to compress the caliper piston to give a bit of slack to take the caliper off, I never used a C-clamp during the entire job. I used a flat-headed screwdriver to lightly pry a bit between the rotor and the pad, and that pushed in the piston enough to get the caliper off without much resistance. Then later I just used a needle nosed pliers to turn the piston clockwise to seat it down into the bore to give clearance with the new pads on. Plus, I used a little anti-squeal grease on the pad backing and caliper bolt pin.
But overall that was an excellent writeup and I referred to it often when I was working on the first side. The other side pads and rotor took about a tenth of the time to do.
About the only clarification I'd make to the list from the link above is that when you first have to compress the caliper piston to give a bit of slack to take the caliper off, I never used a C-clamp during the entire job. I used a flat-headed screwdriver to lightly pry a bit between the rotor and the pad, and that pushed in the piston enough to get the caliper off without much resistance. Then later I just used a needle nosed pliers to turn the piston clockwise to seat it down into the bore to give clearance with the new pads on. Plus, I used a little anti-squeal grease on the pad backing and caliper bolt pin.
But overall that was an excellent writeup and I referred to it often when I was working on the first side. The other side pads and rotor took about a tenth of the time to do.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post