Need help ASAP - intermittent no start
#1
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Need help ASAP - intermittent no start
Ok guys,
Most of the time when I try to start the car, the cluster cycles, the fuel system comes up to pressure, then go to start, and I get "Click" from the starter solenoid.
Things I have done
1. Bought a low mileage used starter and installed. No Fix
2. Bought a new battery. No Fix
I think I read somewhere about the chasis grounds sometimes causing this but don't know where to find them all.
If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.
I am supposed to drive from NW Arkansas to Houston in about 10 days to see my dad, first time since mother'* funeral, so I have this weekend to resolve this.
The car is a 2002 SSEi with 88k on the odo.
Someone please help me get this fixed. Thanks in advance.
Don
Most of the time when I try to start the car, the cluster cycles, the fuel system comes up to pressure, then go to start, and I get "Click" from the starter solenoid.
Things I have done
1. Bought a low mileage used starter and installed. No Fix
2. Bought a new battery. No Fix
I think I read somewhere about the chasis grounds sometimes causing this but don't know where to find them all.
If anyone has any other ideas please let me know.
I am supposed to drive from NW Arkansas to Houston in about 10 days to see my dad, first time since mother'* funeral, so I have this weekend to resolve this.
The car is a 2002 SSEi with 88k on the odo.
Someone please help me get this fixed. Thanks in advance.
Don
#2
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Expert Gearhead
There is a ground by the fuse box under the rear seat. That'* one to check as it'* the main ground IIRC.
Next up there'* a bunch of grounds held to the transmission right by the starter. Those are your next large batch. Then there are ground packs (a little black box with black wires going into it) bolted to the motor in a couple places. I remember one by the ICM and another on top of the transmission.
Also check that the battery cables are snug. While they don't usually corrode under the seat in your year, it'* possible a semi loose cable can do this to you. I'd also double check the connections for the cables at the underhood fuse block.
Next up there'* a bunch of grounds held to the transmission right by the starter. Those are your next large batch. Then there are ground packs (a little black box with black wires going into it) bolted to the motor in a couple places. I remember one by the ICM and another on top of the transmission.
Also check that the battery cables are snug. While they don't usually corrode under the seat in your year, it'* possible a semi loose cable can do this to you. I'd also double check the connections for the cables at the underhood fuse block.
#3
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Ok guys,
I ran a wire from the negative side of the battery to one of the bolts on the engine side of the pancake motor mount to eliminate a "bad ground". Same symptoms. I am really frustrated. I believe that I have a bad connection on the power side. I have changed the start relay already. Could someone offer some advice here or just call me @ 479-721-5616 to help me get this figured out. I really don't want to put it in the shop. I feel like this is probably an easy fix, I just don't know where to look.
Don
I ran a wire from the negative side of the battery to one of the bolts on the engine side of the pancake motor mount to eliminate a "bad ground". Same symptoms. I am really frustrated. I believe that I have a bad connection on the power side. I have changed the start relay already. Could someone offer some advice here or just call me @ 479-721-5616 to help me get this figured out. I really don't want to put it in the shop. I feel like this is probably an easy fix, I just don't know where to look.
Don
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Thanks Dan, I will do those tomorrow. I am about ready to get her started and take her a$$ to the shop.
Don
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#7
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May have resolved the issue. The "hot" connection at the fuse box under the hood looked corroded on the cable going to the battery/alternator. I cut the connector off, rebuilt the connection, soldered it all together, then used a clamp to crimp everything really really well. The car started 8/10 times where as before it might start 1/10 times. We'll see, more testing to come. Thanks for all the help. I will let you know.
Don
Don
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Ok problem is back. I believe it has to do with the humidity. On the day that I rebuilt the connection it was raining and very hot outside. Today was 100+ with little humidity. Got home from work and the car won't start. Exact same symptoms as before. I was told by a very experienced cert. mechanic that he has seen a prob like this before. I am at a loss for what to do except put her in the shop. If you guys have any other ideas before I spend the money to do that, please let me know. The trip to Houston has been postponed till next month because of the crap.
Thanks in advance
Don
Thanks in advance
Don
#9
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Humidity and moisture can cause loads of problems with electrical systems. Especially ones that use low voltage and are relying on low impedance signals. Also...when making electrical connections and using two different types of metal at the connection points (like copper and aluminum) they can start galvanic corrosion and subsequent heat build up and later failure.
I think a Tech II scan might find the problem and though it will cost you money, it sure will save you from further headaches and randomly replacing parts and pieces in hopes of solving a problem.
I think a Tech II scan might find the problem and though it will cost you money, it sure will save you from further headaches and randomly replacing parts and pieces in hopes of solving a problem.