What does ELC stand for?
Nothing like you describe happens when I turn the car on. I even had a couple of guys from work try it. Should my car have a "load leveling" system of some sort? If so, I don't think it works.

ELC = electronic level control (air ride system) Standard on SSEi'* not sure if its an option on the se or sle.

I bought my 2000 SSEi used with about 47k miles on it, and it was doing the same thing. I took it in for a 4 wheel alignment, had the outer tie rods replaced, and the tires balanced. It helped a lot. It still does it a bit on occasion, depend on the road surface, and how serious the bump, but it'* a lot better than it was.

Well some bumps just make a rear end check up like that. Ther'* a manhole on the hill up to campus in mankato I always hit, and it does it'* thing on my butt....

Thought I'd update you on my problem.
I took my ssei back to my dealer and told them that the alignment didn't do any good.
I told them I had been on this forum and it was suggested that the problem was with the ELC. They told me that my car didn't have the leveling system option. After I insisted that it did, they pulled up the list of features on my car. Imagine their surprise when it showed that the leveling system was installed on my car! They replaced the level sensor (PN 25728489). The problem didn't entirely go away, but the ride is ALOT better. In the meantime, my service stability system message came on. They replaced the steering wheel rotation sensor (PN 26059045).
Thanks to everyone who replied.

I can't believe that a GM service department could be so stupid as to think that an SSEi Wouldn't have the ELC system!?!........the 'steering wheel rotation sensor' has me in the dark,.........must be something to do with the StabiliTrak system????

I had a 92 se that did some of the same things yours is doing. If I remember correctly, it was my stabizer in the front end. When I had it replaced, it made all the difference in the world. It was like driving a new car.

My '00 SLE slowly started getting worse after about 35k, and the front end was kind of mushy anyway, so I went with the Monroe gas magnums up front, and the air shocks in the back, and the ride was greatly improved. As soon as I got my '02 SSEI, I noticed the exact same problem, yet worse than the old car ever experienced. I bought the new struts and shocks within a month and swapped them out.

(I didn't even bother with the dealer, as it would have been purely subjective with some nad saying that was how the car was supposed to handle.)

Problem solved immediately. When I pulled out the rear shocks, one of them was full of a brown rusty looking fluid. Figured that sucker was bad from the git go, and must have been a major contributor. Your load leveler would definitely play a part if you had mildly poor shocks, and the cars center of gravity was too high, even if slightly.

I noticed that when I put on the 285/35 profile tires on the car, that the hop was worse, also, understandably. Low profile tires on a heavy car like this is something done judiciously, at best.

2001 Bonneville SLE
Yet another question about the bump and steer. Looks like I might replace the air shocks on my 2001 SLE. The sensation is getting worse and expecilly in the winter months. I am going to first check the rear linkages and bushings but I have no idea where the ELC is located. Can someone help me out here. WHen replacing the rear shocks do I have to change this as well.

Please help as I am getting frustrated about this uneasy sensation while driving.

oh yah. as per another post I read. My ballancing and allignment is good.

If there is information out there on the web about removal or rear shocks please let me know.

Thanks all

Jack up the back end, remove tire. Then remove the air line from the top end of the shock, a little air will esacape, but since the shock is not under pressure since you jacked the car up, it won't be much. There is a slip-pin holding the air line in place, just pull it of with pliers or what not. Un-bolt the bottom of the shock, unbolt the top of the shock in the trunk. Pull back the carpet and pull the plastic cap off of the top of the shock bolt. Drop the shock, and reverse to reinstall. Put the slip-pin on the air connector beforehand, and it will give a satisfying click as it slips into place.

You don't have to mess with the level control at all. When you jack it up and have a wheel off, you can see the level control easier. Just a rod connecting to an electronic rheostat/sensor near the center line of the car.