2000-2005 COMMON PROBLEMS .......and solutions
#71
door water leaks - new Info
Found a solution the hard way this weekend to some hard-rain leaks we had into our 2002 SE this weekend.
Symptoms: First noticed wet carpet in the back, and then in the front. Also noticed a wet line in the carpet coming from the passenger-side front door, about 3/4 of the way back from the front.
Wrong Solution: My first guess (got proven wrong) was that the door bulb seals were leaking, so took them off and ran a bead of silicone under them and reinstalled. Guess what, more water showed up in the floorboard while my wife was hosing the car for me.
Solution: It turned out (at least in this case) that water was coming in the window seal right at the rear-view mirror. That'* ok normally, because there are huge drain holes at the bottom of the door which drain the whole steel door shell out. However, with the door open (and you can try this if you happen to be investigating why you have wet carpets), carefully spraying water at the base of the window, a lot of it came out the bottom of the inside door panel which drains right down the carpet. From inside, with the door closed, it looks like it is coming in across the top of the bulb seal.
Inside the door panel (it is held on by the jagged plastic push clips), there is a "Water Deflector" which is a clear plastic cover over the steel door shell held on and sealed by a string of black gooey adhesive. It had come loose at the bottom. I found replacement sealing strips at AutoZone (much thicker) and they called it "Ribon Seal" for installing windshields.
Doesn't take much time to fix, and the seal was around $8. But I'd have paid a lot more for the "how" last weekend!
edit: Here are some pics I took of the repair (other door, same problem) http://www.focaltechinc.com/josh/bon...r_leak_fix.pdf (1.6MB, Adobe Acrobat)
Symptoms: First noticed wet carpet in the back, and then in the front. Also noticed a wet line in the carpet coming from the passenger-side front door, about 3/4 of the way back from the front.
Wrong Solution: My first guess (got proven wrong) was that the door bulb seals were leaking, so took them off and ran a bead of silicone under them and reinstalled. Guess what, more water showed up in the floorboard while my wife was hosing the car for me.
Solution: It turned out (at least in this case) that water was coming in the window seal right at the rear-view mirror. That'* ok normally, because there are huge drain holes at the bottom of the door which drain the whole steel door shell out. However, with the door open (and you can try this if you happen to be investigating why you have wet carpets), carefully spraying water at the base of the window, a lot of it came out the bottom of the inside door panel which drains right down the carpet. From inside, with the door closed, it looks like it is coming in across the top of the bulb seal.
Inside the door panel (it is held on by the jagged plastic push clips), there is a "Water Deflector" which is a clear plastic cover over the steel door shell held on and sealed by a string of black gooey adhesive. It had come loose at the bottom. I found replacement sealing strips at AutoZone (much thicker) and they called it "Ribon Seal" for installing windshields.
Doesn't take much time to fix, and the seal was around $8. But I'd have paid a lot more for the "how" last weekend!
edit: Here are some pics I took of the repair (other door, same problem) http://www.focaltechinc.com/josh/bon...r_leak_fix.pdf (1.6MB, Adobe Acrobat)
#72
I think some of your times to replace are off. Replacing the intermediate shaft takes about 12-15 minutes to replace. Dealer time is .4 and customer pay is .7. Replacing the steering wheel position sensor takes about 20 minutes, dealer time is .9 and customer pay is 1.5. SWPS fail almost daily on the “K” body caddies, not sure why they do not fail as often on the C-Hours bodies.
#73
I had the N2144 switch door window right relaced yesterday under warranty. This is the drivers door main switch pod.
Also had a free transmission flush and filter from GM because it took 11 months to replace the DIC.
Had one of the mechanics look at my car and complement me on the shine, made my day.
Also had a free transmission flush and filter from GM because it took 11 months to replace the DIC.
Had one of the mechanics look at my car and complement me on the shine, made my day.
#74
"N2144 switch door window right"
"N2144" is the Warranty opt code for submitting a claim
Switch door window right is the passenger door switch, not the main one.
They replaced the wrong one or the tech did not get paid for the correct one????
"N2144" is the Warranty opt code for submitting a claim
Switch door window right is the passenger door switch, not the main one.
They replaced the wrong one or the tech did not get paid for the correct one????
#75
Originally Posted by dougelam
"N2144 switch door window right"
"N2144" is the Warranty opt code for submitting a claim
Switch door window right is the passenger door switch, not the main one.
They replaced the wrong one or the tech did not get paid for the correct one????
"N2144" is the Warranty opt code for submitting a claim
Switch door window right is the passenger door switch, not the main one.
They replaced the wrong one or the tech did not get paid for the correct one????
#76
I just was re-reading this thread and noticed the listing of the Road Rash, so I thought I would add a cost for this.
When I had mine in for the hood repaint they quoted me $225 to respray both sides. They would do the entire body cladding section on the rear doors and rocker area, and without removing it due to the fact it may not hold as well if they had to reinstall it.
When I had mine in for the hood repaint they quoted me $225 to respray both sides. They would do the entire body cladding section on the rear doors and rocker area, and without removing it due to the fact it may not hold as well if they had to reinstall it.
#77
Re: 2000-2005 COMMON PROBLEMS .......and solutions
[quote="mike_peperni"]After looking some thread, i see that some members were interested in making a thread for the common problem on the 2000-2005 bonneville,
ill start with what i know, the following price are from dealer and are in canadian$$
sorry i dont know how to convert them in US$.
1-INTERMEDIATE SHAFT:
Symptom: Clunking sound while fully turn the steering wheel right and/or left, can also look like someone is sliding a cardboard on a grill.
Solutions:- Some of us just lube it, any good mechanic will do it for you,or dealer (not free)
-Replace the intermediate shaft: More expensive and for now we dont know if it worth changing it, this is the same design.
Cost:
Intermediate shaft: 227$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2 hour @ xx $
[\quote]
how long will the lube last
ill start with what i know, the following price are from dealer and are in canadian$$
sorry i dont know how to convert them in US$.
1-INTERMEDIATE SHAFT:
Symptom: Clunking sound while fully turn the steering wheel right and/or left, can also look like someone is sliding a cardboard on a grill.
Solutions:- Some of us just lube it, any good mechanic will do it for you,or dealer (not free)
-Replace the intermediate shaft: More expensive and for now we dont know if it worth changing it, this is the same design.
Cost:
Intermediate shaft: 227$ +taxes
Labor: 1-2 hour @ xx $
[\quote]
how long will the lube last
#79
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Viz..I believe there has recently been a new part released by GM. Hang in a moment.
Replace the original concentric style steering shaft with P/N 26068295, a Double "D" design. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in SI.