WOT lag/bog questions
#1
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From: Monroe, MI
WOT lag/bog questions
my car has been doing this for awhile now, but since I don't floor it that often I don't really notice it. But I'd like the car to run correctly, so here it is: If i mash the gas from any speed the car will downshift and hit full boost and take off, but about halfway through the rev range you can feel the car just fall on its face, no drop in boost or RPMs, just a much slower climb. I have noticed however, if I shut the car off and restart it then try it again, the car has full power for about 30 seconds before going sluggish again. I pulled the codes and an ESC circuit fault code was set, along with a cam sensor fault, and a PASS-Key fault. Would any of the codes pulled result in sluggish performance? Or should I look more along the lines of open/closed loop since full power is restored upon restart?
#2
The open loop condition is dependent on ECT, not a fresh start.
Forget the VATS code. (Passkey). It'* a known bug in the 92 PCM.
Electronic spark control circuit? Cam sensor? You got it. That'* very likely your problem. The interruptor magnet is probably missing, or your sensor is bad. That'* the spark reference circuit.
Forget the VATS code. (Passkey). It'* a known bug in the 92 PCM.
Electronic spark control circuit? Cam sensor? You got it. That'* very likely your problem. The interruptor magnet is probably missing, or your sensor is bad. That'* the spark reference circuit.
#3
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From: Monroe, MI
which sensor is the 6 hour change? the cam or crank sensor? and would this be the cause of the lag? or should I look elsewhere? and speaking of the ECT sensor, I'm pretty sure mine is faulty.. I'll get a low coolant light now and then even though the reservoir and radiator are full.
#6
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From: Monroe, MI
yup, i was just outside taking off the ICM to get that tested and as i was flipping through my manual it said the same thing. Ugh.. I guess I'll test the ICM and pick up a KS and see what happens.
#7
Testing the ICM won't tell you anything. I've seen many bad units test good. I've also seen a few good units test bad.
On the bad units testing good, it may be as frequent as 50%. Your best bet is swapping in a known good unit.
The knock sensor can cause your symptoms. And it could be caused simply by being loose and rattling. The best way to troubleshoot that is with a scantool while the car is under the conditions you describe. The KS counter would be counting up like crazy while the PCM retards timing.
On the bad units testing good, it may be as frequent as 50%. Your best bet is swapping in a known good unit.
The knock sensor can cause your symptoms. And it could be caused simply by being loose and rattling. The best way to troubleshoot that is with a scantool while the car is under the conditions you describe. The KS counter would be counting up like crazy while the PCM retards timing.
#10
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From: Monroe, MI
I have full boost, and its just not as quick as it used to be. It also has a terrible idle. It will idle around 1500 rpm and when it drops down to around 1000 rpm it runs really rough like it has a cam.