WooHoo! No more ringy-dingy noises from the front end! PICS!
#71
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Ok, sorry to be a pain about this subject, but I have another question. I was looking at my 'stock' ones and they look different than what has been posted here. My top washer is 1/8 in thick, hex shaped and threaded. In other words, my top washer is the nut.
I plan on doing the change this comming weekend and want to make sure I have the right tools ready for the job. Anyone know off hand what size deep well will do the job? It looks like I will be lucky enough to get these apart without cutting, just using hand tools.
Thanks.
Jay
I plan on doing the change this comming weekend and want to make sure I have the right tools ready for the job. Anyone know off hand what size deep well will do the job? It looks like I will be lucky enough to get these apart without cutting, just using hand tools.
Thanks.
Jay
#72
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Originally Posted by karfreek
Ok, sorry to be a pain about this subject, but I have another question. I was looking at my 'stock' ones and they look different than what has been posted here. My top washer is 1/8 in thick, hex shaped and threaded. In other words, my top washer is the nut.
I plan on doing the change this comming weekend and want to make sure I have the right tools ready for the job. Anyone know off hand what size deep well will do the job? It looks like I will be lucky enough to get these apart without cutting, just using hand tools.
Thanks.
Jay
I plan on doing the change this comming weekend and want to make sure I have the right tools ready for the job. Anyone know off hand what size deep well will do the job? It looks like I will be lucky enough to get these apart without cutting, just using hand tools.
Thanks.
Jay
Jay
#73
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I did mine (but they were OEM metal.....refer to your other topic for that answer) with standard hand tools, and didn't have to cut. HOWEVER, it would have been easier to simply cut them off.
#74
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I changed the bushings, and man what a difference! The stock ones were shot, I was able to move the bushings up and down at all four corners. The road salt is killer on the rubber. This is definately a worth while upgrade for any Bonnie owner!
Jay
Jay
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Did my Poly front end-links (Energy Suspension) and regular rubber rear end-links (Moog) two weeks ago. Did these, Raybestos ceramic brake pads, and premium NAPA rotors, fresh Mobil Semi-Syn oil and lets, just say she runs like a top, and takes to the corners so well. Not to mention without the extremely annoying suspension clatter and the steering response nothing less than from what it was like before.
I've found the new end-links, and Pilot Drving lights to be the biggest bang-for-the-buck mods I've done, with the CAI, 3" DP, and high flow cat being right behind that.
I'd suggest that if someone has a higher (over 100,000 miles) on their car, end-links are a big investment for such a small price (under $25 for both the front and rears). And to make the deal even sweeter, they are almost easier to change than changing the oil. Also, provided a good time for me to access the brakes for replacements.
I've found the new end-links, and Pilot Drving lights to be the biggest bang-for-the-buck mods I've done, with the CAI, 3" DP, and high flow cat being right behind that.
I'd suggest that if someone has a higher (over 100,000 miles) on their car, end-links are a big investment for such a small price (under $25 for both the front and rears). And to make the deal even sweeter, they are almost easier to change than changing the oil. Also, provided a good time for me to access the brakes for replacements.
#76
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The tires on my car are now the weakest link. When I take on-ramps and really push it the car leans so little now it does not allow the tires to 'bite', hell they dont even squeel now, the car just starts to slide.
Time to do some tire research.
Jay
Time to do some tire research.
Jay
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Originally Posted by karfreek
The tires on my car are now the weakest link. When I take on-ramps and really push it the car leans so little now it does not allow the tires to 'bite', H*** they dont even squeel now, the car just starts to slide.
Time to do some tire research.
Jay
Time to do some tire research.
Jay
Yeah, I know exactly what you mean -found this out testing the new setup 90 mph on a posted 35. Kinda made me wanna slow down to 85. Those Goodyear Regatta 2'* just aren't meant for spirited cornering.
I'm thinking that my next set of tires will be some Z-rated 255/50/16'* mounted on Grand Prix 16x8 crosslace'*. That'd really make for some mad cornering.
#79
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That being said, have fun.....beer makes it better!
i put on the Autozone polyurethane specials. I whacked the old ones with a die grinder.
It REALLY made a differnce on the off ramps.
Enjoy !
JLathem
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Re: WooHoo! No more ringy-dingy noises from the front end! P
Originally Posted by acg_ssei
Got a box of Moog Performance link bolts (blue urethane), popped them in, tightened them down, and Hey! No more bouncy-bouncies! No more ringy-dingies! Nice quiet, tight steering again! At least the front end loads are now taken up by the one remaining good strut, thanks to a solid mounting on the stabilizer bar once again, so I won't be beating the front end to pieces while I gather up the money for a pair of new struts.
Sway Bar Link/Kit
REAR SUSPENSION K5315 87-99
Sway Bar Link/Kit
FRONT SUSPENSION - PROBLEM SOLVER K8989
Can anyone confirm these numbers, and who sells Moog???