WooHoo! No more ringy-dingy noises from the front end! PICS!
#11
I was going to ask about the easiest way to install the new links. Last time I had to oil up the rubber and squeeze the bushings in there. Should I loosen the stabilizer shaft bolts this time?
#12
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
I was going to ask about the easiest way to install the new links. Last time I had to oil up the rubber and squeeze the bushings in there. Should I loosen the stabilizer shaft bolts this time?
I think I did have the front wheels on ramps at the time; if they were hanging loose (e.g. car on axle stands) the suspension would probably have been hanging too far down to get the bar connected to the link bolts.
#13
Just had the links installed. It was too cold for me to do it, so I had the shop do it for me. I had the blue polyurethane links put in this time. Ahhh, that'* better.
The secret is to take a crowbar and lift up the sway bar while you shove the link and bushings in there. The wheels were hanging free.
The secret is to take a crowbar and lift up the sway bar while you shove the link and bushings in there. The wheels were hanging free.
#14
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
Just had the links installed. It was too cold for me to do it, so I had the shop do it for me. I had the blue polyurethane links put in this time. Ahhh, that'* better.
The secret is to take a crowbar and lift up the sway bar while you shove the link and bushings in there. The wheels were hanging free.
#15
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
I may have to do this soon. Or at least check mine. I'm getting a rattle over speedbumps, and it'* not the rest of the suspension. Seems to give a little too much cornering now, too.
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by willwren
I may have to do this soon. Or at least check mine. I'm getting a rattle over speedbumps, and it'* not the rest of the suspension. Seems to give a little too much cornering now, too.
Be careful if you do, because the broken stub sometimes gets hammered to a sharp point where the two pieces are slamming together over bumps.
#17
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Doing this right after the Daytona 500 today. Got Energy Suspension polyurethane heavy duty link kits and frame bushings from Autozone for under $25. The counter guy couldn't believe I had a 1.25" swaybar on the front.
#18
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Halifax Nova Scotia ASE Master Service Tech
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have fun, I just did mine a week ago. I normally do them with a torch (torches make everything easier) and air tools. Now that I do the work in my own garage (without torches or compressor), things just are that much harder and longer to do. That job took me about 2.5 hours because of rust and siezed nuts. I had to actually cut the polyurethane spacer off so I could move the washers up enough to get a socket on the bottom of the swaybar bolt. It just plain sucked and I don't want to do it again without my torches. That being said, have fun.....beer makes it better!
#20
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Damn near. I prepped them ahead of time by cleaning up the threads with a wire brush, then oiling them. It was still a battle. The new ones were nice. Barely more threads than I needed. It helped alot to loosen the frame bushings so I could lift the bar to assemble the new endlinks. I'll have pics up later.
I'll also tell you how the Energy Suspension stabilizer/frame bushings won't work for us. Stock bushings are back on, but their endlinks are great.
I'll also tell you how the Energy Suspension stabilizer/frame bushings won't work for us. Stock bushings are back on, but their endlinks are great.