I know I have a dying front driver wheel bearing. If I grab the wheel by the top and bottom, it'* got play. Both fronts have play left and right, accompanied by sound from tierods or steering rack.

Will a wheel bearing cause a constant highway speed vibration? It'* not bad just yet, but noticeable and felt through the steering wheel.

Should there be any left/right play at all or should I look at new tierods?

Any special tools needed to do a bearing or tierod?

The wheel hub is easy as hell. If you have done your front brakes then that is the hardest part(removing caliper) Once you get the caliper out of the way(tie it to your strut with a coat hanger to keep it out of the way) Remove the rotor, the hub has 3 hole in it. 2 are round and 1 is kind of oval shape. 3 t-50 or t-55 bolts hold the hub to the spindle and you can only get to them by putting the torx bit through the oval shaped hole once you line the hole up to the bolt head. remove the bolt all the way and then rotate the hub till you find the next bolt. They may be very hard to remove if they are old or rusty. I would spray the bolts with pb or wd-40 and let sit for 20 minutes before trying to loosen them. if you go too fast and snap the head of the bolts off, you are fucked in a big way so be very careful. don't forget to unplug you abs wire and when you put things back together make sure the wire is reattached to the metal retaining clip so its not flopping around. Here is a great link with good detail as to what you will need to do.
http://www.autopartsdirecttoyou.info/?p=12
good luck

Looks like I'll need a 1 5/16″ or 34mm socket and probably new hub-mounting bolts. Anyone know what size/thread those bolts are? Are the heads male or female TORX?

I called 4 dealerships in my area, they have the bolts but can't tell me what size they are. I guess its a company secret. the torx bolts are female , so you know it will give you trouble J/K

Shouldn't really have to replace the hub bolts unless they're really stripped or rusted or something. I've always just reused them.

If the hub sticks in it'* hole with the bolts removed, an old rotor mounted backwards makes a good whacking surface/makeshift slide hammer.

If you're a packrat like me, you'll save the wheel studs from the old hub, just in case you ever need to replace one (they just pound out).

I don't recall the torque spec. on the big hub nut, but you'll want to follow it.

Not really a hard job though.

So the hub and wheel bearing are built into one piece?

Yes sir they are one piece. I have always reused the hub bolts to. they are made of hardened steel and it is very difficult to strip them or even stretch them out. The axle nut needs to be torqued to spec although I have done it by guessing and it has worked out fine. I use a 1/34 deep socket to set the hub in and it works very well. axle nut should be torqued to 118 ft/lbs IIRC. We got your back J, Have a go at it.

If you have left-right wobble and not up-down then your hub is ok and the problem is in your tie rods; inners or outters.

The hub bearings tend to make a groaning sound when they get real bad. Especially when going around a corner and the weight goes on that wheel.

And what about the tierods?