Yeah, I can see the TPS. But what do I do? Do I just test the resistance? I guess the resistance increases with age, right?

Set your multimeter to Ohms
take plug out of tps
test the sensor, not the plug.
3 steel pins are in there.
test them by hooking up red and black from multimeter, then move the throttle by hand through its range slowly, looking for smooth increase in ohms. If it spikes throughout the range, it'* toast.

Very nicely done. Thanks for changing the post to have more guts. That definitely helps. I've got to do some reading now.

Did you swap out the plug wires yet? Is it missing/spitting any at idle.. in Park? If not, disregard all the following.

If so, you can do this quick check at the coil secondaries:
Start engine; allow to stabilize; unplug IAC motor (not to exceed 2 min.); use insulated pliers (AND a rubber glove is great too); pull one plug wire at a time while listening for miss to get worse or stay the same.
Of course, if it stays the same, that is a bad plug, wire or coil.

Also, I found on mine, that if the coil is good, it will arc back to the coil body with the wire off. If one or both sides don't, suspect THAT coil.
I just had 2 coils die after they passed the resistance test days/weeks prior. Not now though.
The symptom prior to them completely dying was problems at acceleration... crappy spot if I nailed it and "shuddering" if accelerating in OD. To quote or misquote Willwren, "If it misses under load, it is ignition."

The engine doesn't sound like it'* missing. It just sounds kinda choppy by the exhaust. Maybe not even choppy, but stricter than the other 92-95s I've heard. I'm going to do the wire swap today and plug in a battery charger so I can do some work. It'* a great day outside!

I have pictures! I took out the old wires and put in the new ones. It was a quick and easy job, and the new ones feel a lot softer and yet beefier. Are used plug wires any good to someone? I want to get rid of them for the cost of shipping if anyone wants them.

Let'* start off with a picture of my thumb and index finger. I did a bang-up job! This happens every time I get near my plugs...


Here are the new plugs installed on my car.


Two more angles.



This covers almost everything in the engine bay with my camera phone. The card wouldn't read at first, so this may be one of the last sets of pictures I take in a while. Here is a picture of my new battery with temporary side post wiring.


I used the multimeter pictured below to see the resistance of the coils.


I set the ohm meter to 20K and found that each coil was ~8 on the screen. I assume this is 160K? I didn't get a TPS reading yet because I see on the 99 SLE there are two cables going to the throttle body, but the 94 has only one, and I want to check one more time. Is it the only set of two wires going to the throttle body whose resistance I test?

The ignition coils were:
1-4 - 7.6
2-5 - 8
3-6 - 7.8

There'* nothing wrong with 20psi of Oil Pressure at idle when warmed up.

That'* not causing you any running issues or noise.

But the engine noise changes when the oil pressure drops. In all my mechanical greatness, I have lost my extension cords. It'll be up to a half a day more before I start my 94 for the video.

When the car cold-starts, the oil pressure actually gets very close to 50 PSI according to the dash gauge. When it warms up, it goes to 40 and stays. When I put it into D, it still stays at 40. However, after some driving time, the oil pressure starts dropping. From the very moment that the gauge'* needle starts moving counter-clockwise, the engine starts making a different noise. The noise is kind of like valve clatter, but more gentle.

I somehow missed the part where it said the motor was making noise.
Until we see/hear the video, I could only guess at what could be making that noise. (Idler pulley,Harmonic Balancer)

'll see about the battery wiring & charging in the morning, and then I'll get you a video.

The noise is basically the engine'* normal sound with a hint of slop added, in case that helps.