Water Water ... now what? ongoing saga of bad mechanic
#12
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well now the plot thickens. I started the motor for three to four minutes and prior to that i checked the oil (mandatory ). Oil was clear just like new oil should be.
I then filled up the radiator with water, jacked up the car and with my bend-a-light® peered into the darkness. I noticed a drip coming from the oilpan, which i peered even higher. The leak appears to be coming somewhere from the block, where I cannot ascertain at this point. My belief is that it is coming from the back of the block.
I started engine up and ran three to four minutes ( just like I said in the first paragraph). I then shut it down and kept looking for any other tale tale areas. There is a casting hole, near the separation line of the tranny and the block in the front, just below the head. there was coolant noticed ( it was wet from the coolant). I then restarted it and ran another two or three minutes to see if I could see coolant coming out of there. No luck, but Ill give even money its in that area as well.
But Now... Yes NOW after running the motor for those few minutes- I did what every 3800 owner with a UIM failure SHOULD do. I again checked the oil and VOILa', there was water in the oil.
SO I still have a UIM failure and a new problem as well.
The motor will not be started again until this UIM problem is cured. and the oil drained and cleaned and drained again and again.
I WILL NOT LET THIS PATIENT DIE!
but this still does not solve the water problem that I see.
Is IT POSSIBLE, just a little- tiny teeny POSSIBLE that the UIM failure ( which is one thing I see for certain could be causeing the big leak Im seeing? Or is it more lilkey the MM (moron mechanic as he is and shall be known) failed to install the plate on the backside of the block properly?
IM sure of the responses already- pull the motor out to where you can work on it- check everything- and reinstall the LIM gaskets as well as the UIM ( which I purchased the dorman® already from my parts store)..
Again- if there is anybody out there that knows a mechanic and takes cash- VISA whatever to fix- I'll do it..
thanks again guys!
MIke
I then filled up the radiator with water, jacked up the car and with my bend-a-light® peered into the darkness. I noticed a drip coming from the oilpan, which i peered even higher. The leak appears to be coming somewhere from the block, where I cannot ascertain at this point. My belief is that it is coming from the back of the block.
I started engine up and ran three to four minutes ( just like I said in the first paragraph). I then shut it down and kept looking for any other tale tale areas. There is a casting hole, near the separation line of the tranny and the block in the front, just below the head. there was coolant noticed ( it was wet from the coolant). I then restarted it and ran another two or three minutes to see if I could see coolant coming out of there. No luck, but Ill give even money its in that area as well.
But Now... Yes NOW after running the motor for those few minutes- I did what every 3800 owner with a UIM failure SHOULD do. I again checked the oil and VOILa', there was water in the oil.
SO I still have a UIM failure and a new problem as well.
The motor will not be started again until this UIM problem is cured. and the oil drained and cleaned and drained again and again.
I WILL NOT LET THIS PATIENT DIE!
but this still does not solve the water problem that I see.
Is IT POSSIBLE, just a little- tiny teeny POSSIBLE that the UIM failure ( which is one thing I see for certain could be causeing the big leak Im seeing? Or is it more lilkey the MM (moron mechanic as he is and shall be known) failed to install the plate on the backside of the block properly?
IM sure of the responses already- pull the motor out to where you can work on it- check everything- and reinstall the LIM gaskets as well as the UIM ( which I purchased the dorman® already from my parts store)..
Again- if there is anybody out there that knows a mechanic and takes cash- VISA whatever to fix- I'll do it..
thanks again guys!
MIke
#13
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Maybe the "plate" you are referring to is the rear crank seal carrier that bolts onto the back of the block. The seal carrier is aluminum and forms a large part of the oil pan sealing surface on the rear of the engine. Depending on where he ground it, you may need to replace the piece.
It would really be good to find that leak somehow before you re-do the LIM & UIM. That is, unless you are planning on pulling the engine anyway. But, if you find the place where it is leaking first, it may not be necessary to pull the engine.
I was thinking maybe you could isolate the engine cooling system from the radiator and heater core (so as not to damage them) by removing the hoses and installing some pvc caps as plugs. These could be secured with hose clamps, then one of the engine heater hose nipples could be connected to a garden hose with another clamp to pressurize the engine cooling passages. Under pressure, it may be much easier to find the leak, especially since it is apparently so big.
Lastly, since you have already bought the Dorman and not the APN upper, you might want to consider pressing a ring onto the reduced diameter Dorman EGR stovepipe (so it will fit into your '95) and installing a shield around the pipe to protect the plastic of the upper from heat deterioration. If you want to try this, let me know.
It would really be good to find that leak somehow before you re-do the LIM & UIM. That is, unless you are planning on pulling the engine anyway. But, if you find the place where it is leaking first, it may not be necessary to pull the engine.
I was thinking maybe you could isolate the engine cooling system from the radiator and heater core (so as not to damage them) by removing the hoses and installing some pvc caps as plugs. These could be secured with hose clamps, then one of the engine heater hose nipples could be connected to a garden hose with another clamp to pressurize the engine cooling passages. Under pressure, it may be much easier to find the leak, especially since it is apparently so big.
Lastly, since you have already bought the Dorman and not the APN upper, you might want to consider pressing a ring onto the reduced diameter Dorman EGR stovepipe (so it will fit into your '95) and installing a shield around the pipe to protect the plastic of the upper from heat deterioration. If you want to try this, let me know.
#14
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
The casing hole you metion has been looked at and discussed...I very highly doubt your leak is there. At this point it seems your motor is wet and tough to find the leak.
There is a good chance that you are leaking from the UIM, both internally and externally.
There is a good chance that you are leaking from the UIM, both internally and externally.
#15
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well eitther way the patient is going into surgery- I have given the car to a rebuild firm - I dont have the time or the Nice neighborhhood watchdogs to let me do this in the front driveway.
Its gonna cost me again. and it hurts. I will get my money out of the car one way or another.
almost feels like a point of diminishing returns...........
Its gonna cost me again. and it hurts. I will get my money out of the car one way or another.
almost feels like a point of diminishing returns...........
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