Vacuum Leak?
#22
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by 96LeSabre
I know what the problem is, the car finally decided to tell me, unfortunately it told me on the way to school today. My brakes decided they didn't like me. The brakes are real soft they work normal at first then give right in and you have to push to the floor to stop. They work a little better if you pump them. So needless to say I had to shift and pump the brakes in order to stop so I could get to school alive. Luckily I know the car well enough to know when to shift.
If yes- you are leaking brake fluid somewhere. Look under the car after applying the brakes a few times.
If no, it is probably a bad master cylinder. A search here on master cylinder will yield much info.
#23
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OK, it leaked ALL of it'* fluid. I refilled it and now it won't leak. The brake light is gone but now it runs horrible and the CEL is on, I am getting that checked out in a few hours. Even after refilling the fluid the pedal still goes to the floor. I pumped the breaks but it won't stiffen back up...I don't see and leaks of any kind.
#24
Senior Member
True Car Nut
If your brake master cylinder was completely empty, you have to bleed your brakes. You have air in the system.
Edit: It'* possible that your master cyclinder is going (a common occurance), but usually, that woould still allow you to pump them up. Not always. Also, look at your rear wheel cylinders and check for leaks there. Just a thought.
Edit: It'* possible that your master cyclinder is going (a common occurance), but usually, that woould still allow you to pump them up. Not always. Also, look at your rear wheel cylinders and check for leaks there. Just a thought.
#26
Senior Member
True Car Nut
No, not hard at all, with a friend helping to pump the brakes while you open, bleed, then close each line. Just make sure that you keep fluid in the master cylinder at all times.
Here'* a thread that describes the procedure accurately (if somewhat roughly). About half way down.
bleed brakes
Here'* a thread that describes the procedure accurately (if somewhat roughly). About half way down.
bleed brakes
#28
Senior Member
True Car Nut
If your reservoir was empty, you have a leak somewhere. You must find and fix that leak before you drive the car. After the leak is repaired, you can bleed the system. Because the reservoir drained, you will need to bleed the master cylinder as well as the service brakes. You will need to disconnect the brake lines on the master cylinder (MC) that run to the front and rear brakes, and install fittings with short hoses that loop back into the master cylinder reservoir under the surface of the fluid. Fill the reservoir and then slowly press down and release the brake pedal until no air bubbles are seen coming from the hoses under the fluid. The MC will then be bled. So you don't lose all the fluid from the reservoir, disconnect the bleed loops one at a time and reconnect the lines to the front and rear brakes. Take care not to let all the fluid drain from the MC reservoir or you will need to bleed it again.
Here is a description for brake bleeding:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...t=bleed+brakes
Here is a description for brake bleeding:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...t=bleed+brakes
#29
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I found the leak after pumping the breaks more the fluid finally found it'* way through and starting coming out right near the right rear. So it'* a line leak...but the car still isn't idling right and the CEL is on...I will check it after school. The bad idling just started earlier when I put the new fluid in, it was fine coming to school this morning.
#30
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Expert Gearhead
You have more than one issue. The leak would not cause an idling problem. As yourself could something have gotten bumped or disconnected when you filled it.