Transmission acting strange under any acceleration from 0
04-25-2008, 04:46 PM
#11
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
As to additives, I'm just telling you what I used. I am not recommending anything in particular, and I have not used anything else to compare it against.
04-25-2008, 05:19 PM
#13
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Apart from suffering from embarrasing TD (Transaxle Dysfunction) when the light turns green 
I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
04-25-2008, 10:04 PM
#14
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by agrazela
Apart from suffering from embarrasing TD (Transaxle Dysfunction) when the light turns green
I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
I would imagine it does everything that a combination of footbraking and neutral-dropping would do: Extra heat and strain on the TC, extra stress on the pump and shaft, premature burning of the clutches, and stressing the hard parts eventually leading to breaking something perhaps anywhere from the input shaft to the axle.
04-26-2008, 02:50 AM
#15
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Item #60902 on this page:
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html
I usually get it like $10 off EBAY, but I've seen it on the shelf at Kragen for like $15 per 10 oz bottle
http://www.lubegard.com/automotive/trans_atf.html
I usually get it like $10 off EBAY, but I've seen it on the shelf at Kragen for like $15 per 10 oz bottle
04-26-2008, 05:33 PM
#16
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ah, I've seen this. I guess your Kragen is like my Advance Auto Parts or so.
The first thing I read about LubeGard is
]quote]Did you know 90% of all transmission failures are caused by heat?[/quote]
Here'* something from the Intense Racing website:
The point of all that is simply that Intense says our transmissions don't need to be cooled. Does LubeGard aim to help dissipate heat more than anything? Or is that a marketing gimmick because they can't explain to everyone why transmissions fail?
The first thing I read about LubeGard is
]quote]Did you know 90% of all transmission failures are caused by heat?[/quote]
Here'* something from the Intense Racing website:
Q. Should I run a tranny cooler?
A. Only if you're planning to pull a trailer through the mountains. Otherwise, we recommend against it on vehicles with the 3800 FWD/4T65E drivetrain.
We have dissected more of these trannies than anyone else in the performance aftermarket, and we have yet to see a single heat-related failure. Hard parts break in these trannies, and these failures will not be prevented by a tranny cooler.
Tranny coolers add unnecessary weight and opportunities for fittings to leak. A leaking fitting can let your tranny run dry in minutes and ruin it far faster than a little heat ever could.
Our trannies are cooled by the same radiator used to cool the engine. So running a colder engine thermostat will make both your engine and your tranny run cooler.
A. Only if you're planning to pull a trailer through the mountains. Otherwise, we recommend against it on vehicles with the 3800 FWD/4T65E drivetrain.
We have dissected more of these trannies than anyone else in the performance aftermarket, and we have yet to see a single heat-related failure. Hard parts break in these trannies, and these failures will not be prevented by a tranny cooler.
Tranny coolers add unnecessary weight and opportunities for fittings to leak. A leaking fitting can let your tranny run dry in minutes and ruin it far faster than a little heat ever could.
Our trannies are cooled by the same radiator used to cool the engine. So running a colder engine thermostat will make both your engine and your tranny run cooler.
04-26-2008, 08:27 PM
#17
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
tranny
I take issue with their saying our cars don't need a cooler.
Hard parts, seals and clutches fail from heat and pressure. Also oxidation of the fluid.
All of this could be avoided with a cooler. In the summer, idling in traffic, it makes no difference what stat you are running. You are cooking your coolant through the hot radiator.
I have never had a trans related problem with any of my cars that have coolers.
Hard parts, seals and clutches fail from heat and pressure. Also oxidation of the fluid.
All of this could be avoided with a cooler. In the summer, idling in traffic, it makes no difference what stat you are running. You are cooking your coolant through the hot radiator.
I have never had a trans related problem with any of my cars that have coolers.
04-26-2008, 10:23 PM
#18
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All right, cooler time as well! 1337ssei put all metal lines and flares into his car for his cooler, so I'll work with him on it. Should be pretty easy, I think. What'* the factory specified normal operating temperature of a 4T65E?
04-26-2008, 11:11 PM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 0
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have never seen a normal operating temperature spec but assuming that with the factory coolant stat of 195 and the trani cooler being in common with the rad, I'd have to assume it'* 195 F.
From a hydraulic point of view, the optimum temp for hydraulic fluid and circuits is no lower than 110 F and no higher than 220 F. Also the basic rule of thumb is a doubling of fluid life for every 10 F drop in temp.........so you do the math.
From a hydraulic point of view, the optimum temp for hydraulic fluid and circuits is no lower than 110 F and no higher than 220 F. Also the basic rule of thumb is a doubling of fluid life for every 10 F drop in temp.........so you do the math.
04-27-2008, 08:26 PM
#20
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 4,606
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I've got a plan of action. Filter change, then transmission cooler. That'll allow me to displace enough transmission fluid to have a redundant and therefore effective flush. I'll pour in some Seafoam Trans Tune before the filter change and take just long enough with this process so it all works out. After the fluid flush, I'll pour in the linked to additive. Any more suggestions? I think that about covers it. Thanks a whole lot for all this help!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
whitecrystal1
Everything Electrical & Electronic
6
06-10-2007 08:08 PM