Sudden Death... Not sparking! Bad ICM? How do I test it?
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Sudden Death... Not sparking! Bad ICM? How do I test it?
Hi all,
Sorry if there'* another thread about this, I couldn't find one...
Here'* my situation, as quickly as possible.
I was on the highway last night, and the car just died, what felt like very suddenly. Coasted to a stop, it would crank over like a *.O.B., but it wouldn't fire. Today, hit the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail, there was ZERO fuel pressure. took off the pressure regulator, looks fine upon visual inspection.
'92 SSE, 175k roughly. Recently got the "Cam Position Sensor" light, but haven't been able to work on it yet, so I had the SES light on constantly. I have also pulled the infamous "Code 58 - Personal Automotive Security System ( PASS-Key ) Fuel Enable Circuit" in the past, so it'* possible that that code came up also, but I had been ignoring it... In my infinite genius, I figured, "Maybe if I disconnect the battery a while, it'll fire back up." Now, I have a car that won't run AND I can't get any engine codes out of it because I cleared them all.
IN A NUTSHELL:
If the PASS-key fuel disable is the culprit, will the car still turn over? Is there a way that I can verify that it is explicitly either the ignition / key or the fuel pump?
Thanks in advance.
Sorry if there'* another thread about this, I couldn't find one...
Here'* my situation, as quickly as possible.
I was on the highway last night, and the car just died, what felt like very suddenly. Coasted to a stop, it would crank over like a *.O.B., but it wouldn't fire. Today, hit the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail, there was ZERO fuel pressure. took off the pressure regulator, looks fine upon visual inspection.
'92 SSE, 175k roughly. Recently got the "Cam Position Sensor" light, but haven't been able to work on it yet, so I had the SES light on constantly. I have also pulled the infamous "Code 58 - Personal Automotive Security System ( PASS-Key ) Fuel Enable Circuit" in the past, so it'* possible that that code came up also, but I had been ignoring it... In my infinite genius, I figured, "Maybe if I disconnect the battery a while, it'll fire back up." Now, I have a car that won't run AND I can't get any engine codes out of it because I cleared them all.
IN A NUTSHELL:
If the PASS-key fuel disable is the culprit, will the car still turn over? Is there a way that I can verify that it is explicitly either the ignition / key or the fuel pump?
Thanks in advance.
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Same scenario my dad is going through right now with his 1994 Buick Park Avenue Ultra up here in Sauk Centre, MN.
We found the fuel pump fuse (20 amp) above the passenger footwell kickpanel blows after the car starts and runs for about 2-3 seconds.
Will let you know what we find out.... the PA is in a shop being checked out today and my dad may already have gotten news of the cause.
Good luck.
We found the fuel pump fuse (20 amp) above the passenger footwell kickpanel blows after the car starts and runs for about 2-3 seconds.
Will let you know what we find out.... the PA is in a shop being checked out today and my dad may already have gotten news of the cause.
Good luck.
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Ist check fuse #6 under the dash on passenger side.
If the fuse is OK then check the driver'* side ground bus for corrosion.
Gas in the tank?
The following picture shows where to find the ground bus.
Let us know what you find.
If the fuse is OK then check the driver'* side ground bus for corrosion.
Gas in the tank?
The following picture shows where to find the ground bus.
Let us know what you find.
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Ist check fuse #6 under the dash on passenger side.
If the fuse is OK then check the driver'* side ground bus for corrosion.
Gas in the tank?
If the fuse is OK then check the driver'* side ground bus for corrosion.
Gas in the tank?
Can a bad pump blow the fuse?
There'* over half a tank of gas in it.
Is that ground bus connection in the same place on a '92? that picture looks like the previous body style.
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Here'* some more info in case the car isn't at home.
When the key is turned to the run position the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for 2 or three seconds. While the key is held in the start position the PCM constantly energize the fuel pump relay. If the fuse blows without cranking it would point to a short in the pump or wiring between the relay & pump. If the fuse blows after the key is turned to the start position it would point to the oil pressure sender.
When the key is turned to the run position the PCM energizes the fuel pump relay for 2 or three seconds. While the key is held in the start position the PCM constantly energize the fuel pump relay. If the fuse blows without cranking it would point to a short in the pump or wiring between the relay & pump. If the fuse blows after the key is turned to the start position it would point to the oil pressure sender.
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Well, upon searching....
Fuse #6 under the passenger side is fine. Every fuse I looked at in the car was fine, actually.
However, I looked under the driver side door jamb, and I could NOT find that bus connection. I found what appeared to be a sequential fuse of sorts closer to the hood release lever, which was in fine condition. (Maybe that'* the ground bus?)
Does the bus connector by any chance go under the driver seat?
My battery is nearly dead too, and I have no charger, let alone any outlet near the parking lot. ahh, college life... :(
Fuse #6 under the passenger side is fine. Every fuse I looked at in the car was fine, actually.
However, I looked under the driver side door jamb, and I could NOT find that bus connection. I found what appeared to be a sequential fuse of sorts closer to the hood release lever, which was in fine condition. (Maybe that'* the ground bus?)
Does the bus connector by any chance go under the driver seat?
My battery is nearly dead too, and I have no charger, let alone any outlet near the parking lot. ahh, college life... :(
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It'* probably wrapped in black tape. Should have a bunch of black wires going to it.
Here'* another picture. Pull out the metal piece to check for corrosion.
Here'* another picture. Pull out the metal piece to check for corrosion.
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Oh, yeah, that'* exactly what I found. Far as I could tell it was in as good of condition as you could ask for on a 15 year old car.
I guess that means we're at:
- Good fuse #6
- Good ground bus
- Good pressure regulator
I guess now I have to find out whether it'* the pump or not?
I guess that means we're at:
- Good fuse #6
- Good ground bus
- Good pressure regulator
I guess now I have to find out whether it'* the pump or not?