Stuttering, lack of power problem...
#63
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This morning before work the car was still running bad after I started it. It slowly gets better as it warms up and seems to be running almost perfectly once I get to work since it'* warmed up by then. After work tonight, and sitting in 15*F for 16 hours, it was running bad again until it warmed up enough to start to drive it home. Even then it wasnt perfect. So we braved the cold and tested the fuel pressure...
Turn key on, 48psi.
Idle, 42psi
Shut engine off, 36psi.
This all seems decent but by now it was idling a little better since it was still warm. I may dig into the throttle body tomorrow, it'* gonna be a cold one again too, with a high of 11*F...
Also, when it'* idling rough and almost dying like it was both times today, the check engine light doesn't come on...
Turn key on, 48psi.
Idle, 42psi
Shut engine off, 36psi.
This all seems decent but by now it was idling a little better since it was still warm. I may dig into the throttle body tomorrow, it'* gonna be a cold one again too, with a high of 11*F...
Also, when it'* idling rough and almost dying like it was both times today, the check engine light doesn't come on...
#64
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, now I plugged it in last night hopeing it would be better this morning and it was. It didn't sputter or try to die at all. So I made it to work fine and all. Then when I was going to go home about an hour ago, went out to start it, back to the sputtering not wanting to run right.
How could keeping it plugged in cause it to run better than not being plugged in? Just cold oil and fluids???
How could keeping it plugged in cause it to run better than not being plugged in? Just cold oil and fluids???
#65
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Western New York
Posts: 1,942
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#66
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Have you tried checking the coils? http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33
#67
There'* a few things that get affected by temperature like the crankshaft sensor..which by itself is not expensive,but one hellava job to get to it.. a faulty CS..will make your engine stutter and also make it surge before and after shift changes.
#68
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fargo, ND
Posts: 685
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by willwren
That'* a check-valve for the shift modulator.
Originally Posted by canaris
There'* a few things that get affected by temperature like the crankshaft sensor..which by itself is not expensive,but one hellava job to get to it.. a faulty CS..will make your engine stutter and also make it surge before and after shift changes.
#69
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Originally Posted by lglarum
Can this go bad? When I was changing the vacuum connections the check-valve had what looked like rust or grungy ATF in it. Kinda red, dirty stuff.
#70
Have you checked the CTS? It could be stuck at a value around 400 ohms causing the ECM to think the engine is always warm. Since it thinks its warm, it will go into closed loop and the O2 is not at temp yet. Just a thought.