1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Shifting out of Park issues.

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Old 01-02-2010 | 06:25 PM
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You MUST drop the cradle to remove the side cover. In my opinion, you will not be able to get the side cover out any other way. Your removal procedure description is perfect.

That is the plate and nut.

The lower pan gasket is reusable (if the original one is there), so you will need a filter. The side cover gasket is reusable, if it doesn't get broken from where the rubber is bonded to the metal. There is also a lathe-cut O ring that goes around the axle area that is reusable if it is intact. The only other thing would be a new rod if you can't repair yours.

If you keep trying to shift the car out of park, you MAY be able to move it. If not, you may have to call a tow truck.
Old 01-02-2010 | 08:36 PM
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I suppose I will be outside for quite a long time trying to get the car moving. The last time I was out there, I waited 20 minutes for the engine to warm up and was able to get the car into reverse...once. I managed to reverse about 2 feet until the wheels spun freely because of the snow, and attempting to rock it forward again, the parking pawl got stuck. I suppose I'll try again.

I just checked, and it seems that the filter comes with a pan gasket.

Thanks for all of the help; it is tremendously valuable to me. I'll be sure to let you know of my progress.
Old 01-02-2010 | 08:38 PM
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Post up any pictures you can. Good luck.
Old 01-02-2010 | 09:18 PM
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If you have the original rubberized (elastomeric) pan gasket, use it over. It will NEVER leak.
Old 01-02-2010 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by sgp358
If you have the original rubberized (elastomeric) pan gasket, use it over. It will NEVER leak.
Good to know. I'll make sure to do that. I wish my oil pan gasket was like that.

Come to think of it, this will be a great opportunity to fix that as well, since I need to drop the subframe for that.
Old 01-03-2010 | 09:04 AM
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You acutally do not have to remove the subframe, you just have to lower it, but if you have an oil pan leak, this is the time to take care of it. Just make sure that is actually where your leak is originating from.
Old 01-04-2010 | 01:15 AM
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Originally Posted by sgp358
You acutally do not have to remove the subframe, you just have to lower it, but if you have an oil pan leak, this is the time to take care of it. Just make sure that is actually where your leak is originating from.
I do suppose that lowering it instead of removing it completely will save me the work of disconnecting the control arms.

I'm not 100% sure of where its leaking from, but the car does have 213k miles, so I would only imagine that could be the problem. Its really quite a minor leak, so its not too critical. The car probably loses half a quart of oil in 4000 miles.
Old 01-04-2010 | 10:41 AM
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You will still have to separate the lower ball joint on the drivers side from the control arm.
Old 01-07-2010 | 04:52 PM
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Does anyone here have any idea how I can get this car to move if the parking rod stays locked in there? I just called a local shop and they said they would charge me $800 for the job, plus the cost of towing the car there. That'* more than I'd like to spend for something I can probably do myself. I'd hate to let the car sit till spring, but I might not have another choice if the car won't move. Any ideas? I need to be able to make two maneuvers; one backing out and one driving into the garage.
Old 01-07-2010 | 04:59 PM
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How steep is your driveway? If you can find them, get 2 of those wheel dollies. Lift up front of car, place dolly under each wheel, drop car, move car.
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