Rough acceleration, Died, Started, Blue Smoke, Died again...
#22
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Help again!
Bad News...
After I got the oil changed and topped off the coolant, I started it up in the driveway, and it idled great for a little bit, revved it up a few times, it was smooth, oil pressure was great, etc... When I shifted into reverse and backed up a few feet, I looked back into a huge cloud of white smoke (couldn't place the smell of it, not coolant or oil?), so I drove it back forward. The engine was rough again, almost dying, and I parked it there and turned it off. My friend who was over said he heard some noises coming from the direction of the air filter box. I poked my head around for a bit under the hood trying to look for things, and when I tried starting it up again, the engine made a loud 'clink' and wouldn't turn over. I think I might be back to my original problem...
Thoughts?
After I got the oil changed and topped off the coolant, I started it up in the driveway, and it idled great for a little bit, revved it up a few times, it was smooth, oil pressure was great, etc... When I shifted into reverse and backed up a few feet, I looked back into a huge cloud of white smoke (couldn't place the smell of it, not coolant or oil?), so I drove it back forward. The engine was rough again, almost dying, and I parked it there and turned it off. My friend who was over said he heard some noises coming from the direction of the air filter box. I poked my head around for a bit under the hood trying to look for things, and when I tried starting it up again, the engine made a loud 'clink' and wouldn't turn over. I think I might be back to my original problem...
Thoughts?
#23
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Try to start it in the morning. After it circulates a bit, check the oil and tell us what it looks like, even if you have to use a flashlight to look inside the front valve cover through the fill hole.
Same thing for you coolant. Level and what it looks like. If the oil looks too 'milky' or somewhat like chocolate milk, drain it immediately, and check back with us.
Same thing for you coolant. Level and what it looks like. If the oil looks too 'milky' or somewhat like chocolate milk, drain it immediately, and check back with us.
#24
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Danny it seens that you have a failed upper intake in a bad way, and the engine may have hydrolocked again...
No point in messing with it anymore...
Being that you got it running, a good sign.... And it didn't really make any nasty engine noise is also a good sign... Sounds almost like the car was struggling and possibly backfired through the intake....
You will need a new set of lower gaskets, and a new coolant elbow( it will break, trust me )... And new uppwer intake as well... These parts will run you a bit over $200 all together..
Look at my thread here, And you'll see some of what needs to be replaced, and the general problem...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...87bf3478babe64
Be very careful, I am hopeful at this point because the car has not sat for any extended period of time after you encountered the problem... I caught my problem early on and was able to avoid a big mess...
Let me know if you have any other questions... Also I'm sure lakeville could give you a good hand if needed
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No point in messing with it anymore...
Being that you got it running, a good sign.... And it didn't really make any nasty engine noise is also a good sign... Sounds almost like the car was struggling and possibly backfired through the intake....
You will need a new set of lower gaskets, and a new coolant elbow( it will break, trust me )... And new uppwer intake as well... These parts will run you a bit over $200 all together..
Look at my thread here, And you'll see some of what needs to be replaced, and the general problem...
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...87bf3478babe64
Be very careful, I am hopeful at this point because the car has not sat for any extended period of time after you encountered the problem... I caught my problem early on and was able to avoid a big mess...
Let me know if you have any other questions... Also I'm sure lakeville could give you a good hand if needed
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#25
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My offer to assist you still stands.
I've done an UIM or two....It'* a piece of cake....3 beer job....if you drink as fast as I do lol.
I've done an UIM or two....It'* a piece of cake....3 beer job....if you drink as fast as I do lol.
#26
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I replaced the UIM and lower intake gasket today, so I may have solved my problem, but the engine still won't turn over. Any suggestions to get it to crank?
#27
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Have you removed the plugs and turned the engine over to make sure there is no water in the cylinders?
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#28
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Told ya on the phone yesterday danny that I think it'* hydro locked...hewhehehehehe
Anyways....definantly get them plugs ripped out of there, clean them up, and crank the car over with out them. If you can get the car to crank then, crank it for about 5-10 seconds to make sure you got it all pushed out.
Toss your plugs back in, check your oil, and try to get it running. Leave it run for about 5-10 min (just to get a good amount of heat into the motor), and clean out the cylinders, and then shut it down and change the oil.
Also while it'* warming up, keep an eye out for new leaks.
Anyways....definantly get them plugs ripped out of there, clean them up, and crank the car over with out them. If you can get the car to crank then, crank it for about 5-10 seconds to make sure you got it all pushed out.
Toss your plugs back in, check your oil, and try to get it running. Leave it run for about 5-10 min (just to get a good amount of heat into the motor), and clean out the cylinders, and then shut it down and change the oil.
Also while it'* warming up, keep an eye out for new leaks.
#29
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Okay, I've repeated the problem twice now. After replacing the UIM and upper/lower gaskets, I pulled the plugs out again, got the coolant out of the cylinders (it was in there from the UIM install), and turned it over again. Got it running, but then after a minnute or so, it starts chugging, and then dies (SAME thing as before). Same classic white cloud out of the exhaust the whole time it was running too.
My conclusion is that it just keeps getting hydrolocked, because there'* SOME leak somewhere that'* allowing the coolant to get into the cylinders. I've replaced the UIM and gaskets, the LIM looked very clean (no cracks), the compression test I ran on all the cylinders was fine (150-175psi)....
What else could it be?
My conclusion is that it just keeps getting hydrolocked, because there'* SOME leak somewhere that'* allowing the coolant to get into the cylinders. I've replaced the UIM and gaskets, the LIM looked very clean (no cracks), the compression test I ran on all the cylinders was fine (150-175psi)....
What else could it be?
#30
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Not sure..
If your compression is that good on all cylinders, then I highly doubt that you have a cracked head or bad head gasket...
Were all of the cylinders loaded with water? Or was it just one cylinder that seemed to have the problem?
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If your compression is that good on all cylinders, then I highly doubt that you have a cracked head or bad head gasket...
Were all of the cylinders loaded with water? Or was it just one cylinder that seemed to have the problem?
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