removing sc and adding a turbo what needs to be done?
#41
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Originally Posted by 95riviera
i saw somewhere that the 1985 riviera came with a turbo option. i wonder what that setup is like and if it would work. atleast the exhaust manifolds
#42
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would it be logical to go to about 8.7:1 or 9.0:1
i can build the heck out of a ford but when it comes to building a supercharged gm v6 i am lost.
i can build the heck out of a ford but when it comes to building a supercharged gm v6 i am lost.
#43
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Look at this list:
http://www.rogue-cavern.net/fwdquarter.html
Not a single car on that list is anything other than 8.5:1 compression that I'm aware of.
http://www.rogue-cavern.net/fwdquarter.html
Not a single car on that list is anything other than 8.5:1 compression that I'm aware of.
#44
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ok. i wont make anymore post till i get the cable from slug to scann for KR. and i wont make anymore new topics at all sence i seem to be getting on everyones nerves here. bye untill i get my cable..
#45
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You're not getting on anyone'* nerves. We're just trying to get you to keep all your information in one topic so we can keep up with you easier. It'* alot more difficult when you're asking Performance questions in 3 or 4 different topics.
Keep it all in a neat little package, and we'll be in a much better position to get your 'big picture' and help you.
Keep it all in a neat little package, and we'll be in a much better position to get your 'big picture' and help you.
#46
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ok i found something. my boost gauge was reading 16inhg vavuum at idle. i got my other boost gauge i had in the shop hooked it up and it reads 21inhg vacuum at idle. i havent been able to see if the boost is higher cause its raining outside i will test tomorrow.
#47
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is the stock, dash gauge reading low? if so i believe it gets the signal from a map sensor. and the new one is close to where mine is at. just below 20 in/hg.
#49
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ok new update. i got my cable from slug today. i drove my riv and here are the results. for a 80* day.
ECT 188*
IAT 102* WHILE DRIVING. 130 AT A STOP IDLE. (NEED A FENDERWELL KIT)
KR 0 AT IDLE AND CRUISING. AT WOT 2-3* SAW 4 AND 5 A FEW TIMES.
INJECTER PULSE WIDTH 4
FUEL TRIM 128-136
BOUGHT FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. 38PSI AT IDLE AND 46-48 AT WOT. CHECKED WITH CAR AT IDLE
WHAT SHOULD I DO TO GET RID OF MY KR, I HAVE TR55 PLUGS GAPPED AT 55. SHOULD I PUT A 180 STAT
ECT 188*
IAT 102* WHILE DRIVING. 130 AT A STOP IDLE. (NEED A FENDERWELL KIT)
KR 0 AT IDLE AND CRUISING. AT WOT 2-3* SAW 4 AND 5 A FEW TIMES.
INJECTER PULSE WIDTH 4
FUEL TRIM 128-136
BOUGHT FUEL PRESSURE GAUGE. 38PSI AT IDLE AND 46-48 AT WOT. CHECKED WITH CAR AT IDLE
WHAT SHOULD I DO TO GET RID OF MY KR, I HAVE TR55 PLUGS GAPPED AT 55. SHOULD I PUT A 180 STAT
#50
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You *need* to check your fuel pressure when the engine is under a load. Doing it in park will not get you the results you need, no matter how high your revs are.
You also need to get that KR under control. Do the FWI. Get that engine cooler somehow (yes do the 180* and fan bypass mod). Make sure your cat isn't clogged, and your fuel injectors are cleaned. And go over the engine with a fine-tooth comb for anything loose. Oh yeah...and make sure your O2 sensor wires are routed away from the spark plug wires.
One more thing (in ancient Chinese Man'* voice)...make sure the MAF sensor is clean.
You also need to get that KR under control. Do the FWI. Get that engine cooler somehow (yes do the 180* and fan bypass mod). Make sure your cat isn't clogged, and your fuel injectors are cleaned. And go over the engine with a fine-tooth comb for anything loose. Oh yeah...and make sure your O2 sensor wires are routed away from the spark plug wires.
One more thing (in ancient Chinese Man'* voice)...make sure the MAF sensor is clean.