removing sc and adding a turbo what needs to be done?
09-11-2007, 05:51 PM
#11
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Have you ever ported before?
A chip will have to be custom from the ground up.
You already HAVE forged rods and pistons. I'm still on a stock bottom end.
14PSI will not let you achieve your goals. That'* pressure you're not using. You need that to go DOWN to use it effectively and gain power.
BOOST PRESSURE IS NOT POWER. Please understand that. (I'm not yelling at you, I'm trying to get a point across).
Originally Posted by 95riviera
im not worried about my budget. what mod will i benifit best from. i want atleast 300 flywheel hp. i cant find a pcm chip for my car. im gonna pp amy heads and intake. when i rebuild motor and put forged rods and pistons. i just cant find any pistons or rods. i would like to be able to get 14psi from my car if possible. but nobody can seem to point me to the right place for the right parts.
A chip will have to be custom from the ground up.
You already HAVE forged rods and pistons. I'm still on a stock bottom end.
14PSI will not let you achieve your goals. That'* pressure you're not using. You need that to go DOWN to use it effectively and gain power.
BOOST PRESSURE IS NOT POWER. Please understand that. (I'm not yelling at you, I'm trying to get a point across).
09-11-2007, 05:59 PM
#12
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i understand that bost is not power. and i have ported before. i ported a set of heads for my mustang and dynoed it and i went from 323fwhp to 377fwhp
09-11-2007, 06:13 PM
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to install a turbo what i do it to put a lower and upper from a L36 so you will have 2 set of hole to put injector in . you run on one set normal driving and at 5 psi of boost the second set of injector kick in via a custon PCM .i saw this on a 1987 LN3 where the guy drill the second set that car was running low 13 on a very hot day
09-11-2007, 07:40 PM
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Just buy a Nissan 300ZX.....that would be much easier....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...em160154790072
...the time it would take you to figure all this out and all the labor you would have in putting it together, and all the stress of tuning that beast would probably equal how much this guy is asking....which I think is a lil high, but....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...em160154790072
...the time it would take you to figure all this out and all the labor you would have in putting it together, and all the stress of tuning that beast would probably equal how much this guy is asking....which I think is a lil high, but....
09-11-2007, 07:53 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by 95riviera
should i add a 255lph pump
The stock S1 L67 fuel pump will support 400hp. The walbro will support slightly more. If you have good pressure at the rail, don't waste your money.
01BonneSC gives some very sound advice above. Look VERY carefully at what you want to do with what you have, and what it'* going to cost you.
I've been to H E L L and back on my SSEi more times than members here know. Has it paid off? That depends on my mood, and whether I think it was worth it at the time.
From a recent topic:
Originally Posted by willwren
I can tell you from experience that if you can't do your own machine work, parts and labor alone will cost you $4k minumum to hit 300 crank hp.
An AFR gauge won't help you achieve that goal, nor will bigger injectors. Based on my pristine wideband scans and BSFC calculations (and gearing vs. RPM back calculations), I've finally crossed the 300hp barrier, and finally outgrown my stock fuel injectors.
But 300hp on a S1 won't achieve the same as 300hp in a S2. Sure, you'll beat him off the line, but he'll spank you from the 1/8 to the 1/4. So what do you REALLY want? A stop-light racer, or a 1/4 mile contender? Why is this? Gearing is nearly identical, but the S2 rev'* out higher. So that same gearing carries you farther in the upper rpm'* the S1 cannot achieve.
If you want 300 crank hp out of a S1, you HAVE to have the trans that can take the rusultant beating from the low end grunt of the S1. You can't add hp without that great (and damaging) torque killing you. The torque will kill the trans faster than a 300hp S2 will, and it'll make it damn near impossible to launch.
The problem is NOT availability of parts. They're out there. The problem is the unknown, or the lack of interested support. Too few would try. So plan on countless hours of playing and tuning on top of:
Ported heads ($200)
1.8 rockers or a custom ground cam ($250)
Ported LIM ($100)
Ported and polished SC, and rebuilt ($300 if you're lucky)
$2500 trans build ($2500)
Wideband O2 ($300)
Scantool ($100)
FSM'* ($50)
A spare car for daily driving ($????)
All new motor mounts ($250)
Suspension upgrade ($450)
Brake upgrade ($300)
New timing chain, gears, and damper ($150)
5 O2 sensors in 3 years ($100)
2 or 3 sets of plugs per year ($75)
2 or 3 teardowns a year (Gaskets at $100)
130lb valvesprings ($50)
New lifters ($200)
A little bit of luck (and if it doesn't hit you, plan on a short block)
Ported throttle body ($100)
Adjustable FPR ($200)
32lb injectors ($300)
Some of the above items are optional, but somewhat critical. Most are a must. The point is that you're starting with a car that is quite old, and there'* alot more to adding power than just plugging it in.
To achieve your goal, assuming you find GREAT prices and good labor quotes, and cannot do your own machine work........
$5, 875.00
Anything less would not include good tires, and would leave you with a performance package that could not hold the power.
I've been lucky. I know a guy that can do machine work for free, and do all the custom stuff for me for nothing. But it'* still cost me dearly in parts and gaskets, not to mention time. Probably about $3500 including having the trans done. He also didn't charge me for the mistakes, or the piles of parts sitting around here that didn't work like I thought they would.
An AFR gauge won't help you achieve that goal, nor will bigger injectors. Based on my pristine wideband scans and BSFC calculations (and gearing vs. RPM back calculations), I've finally crossed the 300hp barrier, and finally outgrown my stock fuel injectors.
But 300hp on a S1 won't achieve the same as 300hp in a S2. Sure, you'll beat him off the line, but he'll spank you from the 1/8 to the 1/4. So what do you REALLY want? A stop-light racer, or a 1/4 mile contender? Why is this? Gearing is nearly identical, but the S2 rev'* out higher. So that same gearing carries you farther in the upper rpm'* the S1 cannot achieve.
If you want 300 crank hp out of a S1, you HAVE to have the trans that can take the rusultant beating from the low end grunt of the S1. You can't add hp without that great (and damaging) torque killing you. The torque will kill the trans faster than a 300hp S2 will, and it'll make it damn near impossible to launch.
The problem is NOT availability of parts. They're out there. The problem is the unknown, or the lack of interested support. Too few would try. So plan on countless hours of playing and tuning on top of:
Ported heads ($200)
1.8 rockers or a custom ground cam ($250)
Ported LIM ($100)
Ported and polished SC, and rebuilt ($300 if you're lucky)
$2500 trans build ($2500)
Wideband O2 ($300)
Scantool ($100)
FSM'* ($50)
A spare car for daily driving ($????)
All new motor mounts ($250)
Suspension upgrade ($450)
Brake upgrade ($300)
New timing chain, gears, and damper ($150)
5 O2 sensors in 3 years ($100)
2 or 3 sets of plugs per year ($75)
2 or 3 teardowns a year (Gaskets at $100)
130lb valvesprings ($50)
New lifters ($200)
A little bit of luck (and if it doesn't hit you, plan on a short block)
Ported throttle body ($100)
Adjustable FPR ($200)
32lb injectors ($300)
Some of the above items are optional, but somewhat critical. Most are a must. The point is that you're starting with a car that is quite old, and there'* alot more to adding power than just plugging it in.
To achieve your goal, assuming you find GREAT prices and good labor quotes, and cannot do your own machine work........
$5, 875.00
Anything less would not include good tires, and would leave you with a performance package that could not hold the power.
I've been lucky. I know a guy that can do machine work for free, and do all the custom stuff for me for nothing. But it'* still cost me dearly in parts and gaskets, not to mention time. Probably about $3500 including having the trans done. He also didn't charge me for the mistakes, or the piles of parts sitting around here that didn't work like I thought they would.
I'll move your topic to Performance and Brainstorming. The general feel of your topic is performance in general, not necessarily forced induction specifically.