Bill, considering this is a Bonneville Forum, and that'* what we base our knowledge on, I don't think other cars have much bearing on the issue.

This was TIGHT steering after the trans and subframe drop. I know for a fact when it happened, because I finished that track pass 10 degrees off to the left in steering wheel position, even though the wheels tracked straight.

On Cheetah'* issue, you don't suppose THIS had anything to do with it, do you?




http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...highlight=gate



Or perhaps driving for a long time with this issue:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ght=rear+wheel

Bill...

I am trying to assist in the manner the club was setup to do with many people from many walks of life and experiences bringing their knowledge together to help each other.

If other GM'* of the same design and other Bonnevilles of much more power don't have bearing, I apologize for clogging your thread.

Sorry for the posts,
Bill

Bill, we're trying to root out the problem here.

Other than Cheetah'* wrecked front end, what other Bonnevilles have we seen with this problem? Last night on the phone, you told me mechanic Dan sees this 'all the time' but you inferred it was on other types of cars, not Bonnevilles.

Is anyone else aware of a history of this problem with H bodies that have not been front-ended?

Well today after work i will go look at mine. my steering feels loose and i just though it was from the 195K i have on it.


also im getting knocking from that part of the front end. so we will see when i get home.

Mine made no noise at all. Your first symptom would be a steering wheel at least 10 degrees off-center, but a car that steers straight and true.

yea, Boosty knows lol. my cars does not steer straight all the time.

so this is either.
A: Same problem as you.
B: Really is just my strut mounts being pissy

But it feels like the knocking is coming from the Sub frame, Rack area. and i know its not th Mounts or saybar. so that leaves it to something else or Steering rack.

Badnit...

Let'* start a fresh thread for your issue.

(runs off to check mine...........)

It'* quite possible the world my never know the root cause of this failure, but we may speculate. Here'* one possible theory:

The transmission monkey neglected to tighten one of those two bolts. It worked loose, leaving all the work to the remaining bolt. This was probably a negligible impact until you put the throttle to it at the track. That'* all the bolt could stands, it couldn't stands no more, and gave up the ghost. It'* quite probable that two OEM bolts properly installed would have never failed, given this scenario.

Point is, I wouldn't recommend everyone run out and change their OEM grade 8 bolts for grade 6 because the Zilla ate one for lunch. I know that'* NOT what you're suggesting, Bill, but I could see some folks taking it as such and scrambling to change those bolts! Using softer bolts may be prudent on Zilla, but mortal vehicles - or even slightly modded ones - should be fine with what the factory gave them.