Radiator Fan Problem
10-13-2002, 12:58 AM
#23
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Ok, I'm not the drivetrain brain here, that would be JR's3800, the Rat, Terminator, or SSEi95.....BUT I don know this: Make sure that damned MONSTER cooler you bought doesn't cover more than 1/2 the radiator! Other than that, I think you'll be ok. If you start to have shifting problems in the winter......(I just noticed you live in PA), you can cover part of the cooler. No biggie......even though that'* more cooler than my 98 Z71 needs towing my 5th wheel! Man, you really know how to shop!
If you need any help hooking that up, jump on line. The instructions will tell you how to find the high pressure and return lines on your transaxle, but I'll save you the trouble. Tap into the line at the top of the Radiator. That'* the right one.
Good luck!
If you need any help hooking that up, jump on line. The instructions will tell you how to find the high pressure and return lines on your transaxle, but I'll save you the trouble. Tap into the line at the top of the Radiator. That'* the right one.
Good luck!
10-13-2002, 02:12 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by RogerH
How hot does it get? Well, if I can assume that the temp guage calibration is accurate, it gets up to between 235 and 240. It wants to go higher than that, too, but by that time, I'm well into evasive maneuvers... getting out of traffic, and/or turning the heater on full blast to disipate heat. A blown head gasket or cracked head is about the last thing I need... Normally, the temp is rock steady at 195 degrees. But when it decides to go above 195, it does so quickly... it can be at 240 within a minute or two. Where I get into trouble is in stop-n-go traffic, and also when cruising with a tail wind that equals my forward speed (hey, I live in Kansas... that happens alot!). So, bottom line, it only happens when there'* minimal air movement through the radiator. Back when the fans were working properly, I remember the temp would edge up to maybe 220, then I would hear the fans kick on, and the temp would immediately edge downward to 195 again. That doesn't happen anymore... no fans.
On the stalling issue, I will check the O2 sensor... for $20, I'll probably just replace it, and see what happens. I guess I'll quit worrying about the catalytic convertor. It'* good to hear that exhaust will blow through any blockage. I really didn't want to replace one of those $$$ things.
I'm interested in this ERG-less feature of the '92... Being without EGR sounds like a good thing, but you say it makes the engine run hotter? Is that because the mixture must be leaner, to meet emission standards, without EGR? I used to have a '91 bonne, also.. I think it had EGR (I remember replacing the EGR valve on it). Why did they change the design?
Thanks for the advise, guys... you've obviously been around these pontiacs alot.
-Roger
On the stalling issue, I will check the O2 sensor... for $20, I'll probably just replace it, and see what happens. I guess I'll quit worrying about the catalytic convertor. It'* good to hear that exhaust will blow through any blockage. I really didn't want to replace one of those $$$ things.
I'm interested in this ERG-less feature of the '92... Being without EGR sounds like a good thing, but you say it makes the engine run hotter? Is that because the mixture must be leaner, to meet emission standards, without EGR? I used to have a '91 bonne, also.. I think it had EGR (I remember replacing the EGR valve on it). Why did they change the design?
Thanks for the advise, guys... you've obviously been around these pontiacs alot.
-Roger
Get the 180^ thermostat put in your car. Min eused to run close to the same high temps yours does. Even though the 180^ therm has nothing to do with the fans it helps and here'* how.
Say your car is running 200^ and you get stuck at a light. You car gains 30^. Now your at 230^ and climbing, not good! Now if your car has a good base, say 180^ and you add on the 30^ you are only at 210^. This is so much better for your ar then 230^+!
10-13-2002, 12:48 PM
#29
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You're right and wrong at the same time. Yes, find the problem and fix it, but also change that thermostat. Remember, Pontiac realized their heat problem was killing intakes. They switched to the 180° for the 99 model year (I think it was 99?), and there are several of us who have done it to earlier years and benefited greatly from it. Not to mention the HUNDREDS of GP guys who have done it.
10-13-2002, 05:07 PM
#30
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Ok, back to Rat and willwren about my radiator fan problems...
Had some time to get under the hood this afternoon, and take some measurements. The resistance of my Coolant Sensor is about 4.5k, cold. I think willwren said that the resistance would fall to the 100 - 300 ohm range with the engine at operating temperature... Rather than heat the engine up for this experiment, I just shorted the two connections on the wiring harness that normally connects to the Coolant Sensor... Zero ohms should turn the fans on. Well... no joy. So... I guess that tells me that my problem is elsewhere, downstream from the Coolant Sensor.
I'd like to check the fan relays next... at least bypass them to see what happens. Under the relay cover under the hood, I see eight relays. I kinda expected there to be an info panel there somewhere, to tell me which relay was which.. but out of luck. Can you guys tell me which of the eight relays I should be looking at?
Another question... I know the fans come on when I run the AC or the defroster. Shouldn't these same fan relays be used in that mode also? and if so, then I must have some other issue, other than the relays... We're running out of parts here... this system can't be that complicated. Could the PCM be in the loop, as well?
Rat, the one thing I haven't tried yet is disconnect the battery, and let the PCM relearn the system.... maybe that should be next.
Thanks in advance for the advice...
-Roger
Had some time to get under the hood this afternoon, and take some measurements. The resistance of my Coolant Sensor is about 4.5k, cold. I think willwren said that the resistance would fall to the 100 - 300 ohm range with the engine at operating temperature... Rather than heat the engine up for this experiment, I just shorted the two connections on the wiring harness that normally connects to the Coolant Sensor... Zero ohms should turn the fans on. Well... no joy. So... I guess that tells me that my problem is elsewhere, downstream from the Coolant Sensor.
I'd like to check the fan relays next... at least bypass them to see what happens. Under the relay cover under the hood, I see eight relays. I kinda expected there to be an info panel there somewhere, to tell me which relay was which.. but out of luck. Can you guys tell me which of the eight relays I should be looking at?
Another question... I know the fans come on when I run the AC or the defroster. Shouldn't these same fan relays be used in that mode also? and if so, then I must have some other issue, other than the relays... We're running out of parts here... this system can't be that complicated. Could the PCM be in the loop, as well?
Rat, the one thing I haven't tried yet is disconnect the battery, and let the PCM relearn the system.... maybe that should be next.
Thanks in advance for the advice...
-Roger