Yes 95neongirl, that is exactly what I am saying. I do know that when the a/c fan runs it does take HP because the engine has to run both the a/c compressor and the engine. But is this normal that the floor vents are running always? And that I can change the temp of the air coming out with the temp control.

Correct me if I am wrong but if you had a vacume leak in the climate control system, it would default to defrost. Maybe it could be a stuck door within the box itself

A Bonnie Canuck Posted: Thu Oct 02, 2003 2:12 pm Post subject:

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Correct me if I am wrong but if you had a vacume leak in the climate control system, it would default to defrost. Maybe it could be a stuck door within the box itself


Huhh???

If you loose control vacume to the air box, the actuator has a spring that will direct the air flow to the default position, which is defrost. This is actually a safety feature, which is good. My opinion is that it is not a vacume problem but maybe the air flow direction door within the air box itself may be jammed. Just a thought..

Yes, but why then would the air be flowing in my off position? I have a manual a/c system, and when it is in off, the floor vents are blowing in whatever temp is set on the controls.

Okay, I have looked up your system in Mitchell'* On Demand. It seems as thought the door that directs flow to the floor is partially open by design. That is actually what is says on the diagram. So, it seems as though this is actually doing what it is supposed to be doing.

Jason McKay

If that'* the same door that'* visible when the evaporator core is out, it is indeed partially open by default.

In actual fact I've found that the default setting on a lot of GM cars (though not necessarily Bonnevilles) is a split between windshield defroster and floor heater outlets.The one setting you can't get with a vacuum leak is VENT, the one that blows air from the dashboard outlets. If that won't work, you've got a vacuum leak somewhere.

(On the older cars with slider controls, the usual source of the vacuum leak was not under the hood but in the dash, in the rotary valve attached to the back of the control panel. It was made up of two discs clamped together, and when it got old, it would either leak like a sieve or just break in two.)

If you've got only a partial vacuum leak, you can also get temperature settings that change by themselves. I once was fixing a Chevy Citation that would give you no heat at all, except when you let off the gas and coasted, at which point the intake manifold vacuum would recover just enough to re-open the heater valve...

So, what about the incident of the temp of the air changing with the adjustment of the temp control while it'* off?? I'm curious about that one, too.

Yes that answers the leak question but what about the temp change when off. Or the fact that the compressor is running at all in the off position.

Perhaps the compressor does not need to be running to make the lines cold??? (I have no clue)