is the sensor just for "looks" then, for the gauge?

is it cosmetic?

how does the computer know the oil pressure if so?

the computer uses the SENSOR...its NOT for looks, if the Oil pressure drops below a given value it will shut off the fuel pump...it really has a purpose

...well that'* what i thought, but I was reading other posts in here about similar issues and really that'* how some responses made it sound, like it wasn't even really important.

So this isn't something I should ignore then, correct? Any particular manufacturer/part #?

i would replace the sensor so it shows the correct oil pressure on the gauge....

you can get one at the GM dealer or Advance Auto or any parts store really

...

This morning twice, the check oil level light flashed, car started stalling out, but recovered.

So, now what...

Check pressure w/mechanical guage...
Bad Oil Pressure Sensor
Or..switch?
Or..pump?

Yikes

Checked oil level -OK
Coolant-still there in the overflow tank-OK

A wierd Knock thing and some wierd oil thing- this is fun = P

Wow, this is a confusing post.

I think something that will help is if we specify switch/sensor further. Technically the car has an oil LEVEL sensor and an oil PRESSURE sensor.

The low oil level light would be controlled by the oil level sensor. The fluctuating gauge on the dash is controlled by the pressure sensor.

Everything I read before and now, it appears at idle your pressure is about 40lbs and goes up with rpm. That is normal. Although reaching nearly 120psi is not normal. Have the oil pressure sensor checked with a mechanical pressure gauge being attached to the car and compare the readings for accuracy.

The light that you are getting, this says "Low Oil Level"? If so, check the wiring to the oil level sensor. If you can not find any issues, I would suggest we get the diagnosing procedure for you to test the sensor with an ohm meter.

Allow me to confuse further!

since it has reached 40F here, the gauge hasn't read nearly as high as previously.

at idle, the needle does stay at 40psi, although today for the first time I saw it did a hair below that. The highest it gets now is probably 60 or so psi (I think). Complete opposite then earlier this week, other then the fact it is 40 degrees warmer, and I changed the thermostat (it wasn't letting the engine warm up properly).

I don't know. It'* never done this twice before, in a row. You just get the alarm chime, the driver'* display lights up the engine led and text CHECK OIL LEVEL, the car stutters, recovers, and after a minute, the warning lamps return to normal.

In the past, when this has happened, the car just stalled out. Restarted it, it was fine.
Two weeks ago, it just stalled out altogether, with no alarms.

*Worth pointing out?* Never have gotten a reading from my AutoTap re: Oil Pressure, always shown 0 volts.

Thanks!

Daron

LOL.. now for a little more insight as to why I mentioned testing the level sensor instead of changing it.

This is starting to sound much like a problem with my 97 SSEi. While many problems can have similar symptoms, they may not be the same issue in the end.

Try checking the battery connections at all ends of all cables. Ensure they are clean, corrosion free and making good contact. This isn't what fixed my issue either...good starting point in case it'* something as simple as a poor connection. While you are working on the battery cables, look over the wiring between the ICM (coil packs) and the cam and crank sensors. Look for any rubs or pinching that would be an obvious issue. (Yes..it'* hard to see and get in there).

We'll walk you through one step after the other until we've exhausted all the free or very low cost things that could be the cause. If all that does not correct the issue, at the moment...I'd be suggesting changing the crank sensor. However with more diagnosis...that could change.

Thank you for all your continued help.

I will do what you suggested in the first paragraph.

I might post some pictures, if I'm unsure if whether something looks "good" or not...

Thanks again,

Daron