Oil pan gasket replacement...
#1
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Oil pan gasket replacement...
Ok, I took it to my local Ford dealer (because they are cheap, we know them, and they do a damn good job on all our cars) to have my tranny leak looked into and fixed. While on the checkup, they said I had an oil leak. Now I was thinking, how could I get a leak if about a month ago the level on the dipstick was right at the level where I found it 7,000 miles ago using Mobile 1? I checked when I took it home and sure enough, in about a months time it lost about a quart since its just below the crosshatch area.
The mechanic who worked on it said it was a minor leak coming from the oil pan gasket, and since its a $400 dollar fix, its best to leave it alone and contributed the low oil level for the engine burning the oil. Now how in the hell could it burn up 1 quart in a months time when before it barely burnt any on top of the fact the engine rarely sees the RPM go anywhere above 3,000 RPM! Apparently he is forgetting that a Bonneville aint no Honda. On top of that they did the oil change. While I appreciated the gesture, I was not notified since i wanted to put synthetic in. So now instead of doing Sea Foam this weekend as I planned it, I have to wait for the oil to be old enough (read: Wait another 3,000 miles to clean my engine) so that I wont be dumping out perfectly good oil after I do the clean.
With that aside, I just did the PCV so hopefully some of the pressure will be relieved so the oil wont seep out. What do you think, could the engine SUDDENTLY be burning 1 quart of oil in a month in addion to a minor leak, or is it really what I always thought it was, a bad oil pan gasket? Is the price to fix it worth it or should I change it myself? How "pain in the ***" is it to replace this gasket?
Sorry for the long story but I like to talk about stuff.
The mechanic who worked on it said it was a minor leak coming from the oil pan gasket, and since its a $400 dollar fix, its best to leave it alone and contributed the low oil level for the engine burning the oil. Now how in the hell could it burn up 1 quart in a months time when before it barely burnt any on top of the fact the engine rarely sees the RPM go anywhere above 3,000 RPM! Apparently he is forgetting that a Bonneville aint no Honda. On top of that they did the oil change. While I appreciated the gesture, I was not notified since i wanted to put synthetic in. So now instead of doing Sea Foam this weekend as I planned it, I have to wait for the oil to be old enough (read: Wait another 3,000 miles to clean my engine) so that I wont be dumping out perfectly good oil after I do the clean.
With that aside, I just did the PCV so hopefully some of the pressure will be relieved so the oil wont seep out. What do you think, could the engine SUDDENTLY be burning 1 quart of oil in a month in addion to a minor leak, or is it really what I always thought it was, a bad oil pan gasket? Is the price to fix it worth it or should I change it myself? How "pain in the ***" is it to replace this gasket?
Sorry for the long story but I like to talk about stuff.
#2
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When they changed your oil did they put in 4 quarts with the oil filter?
When they do an oil change on a 3800, 4 quarts is reccomended... Especially in the series I 3800'*... But you have to take into account these words... " May require up to 1 extra quart when changing the oil filter ".... If they left that out it would explain why the engine was low on oil...
As for the leak, How bad is it in reality? Is their oil all over the ground where you park the car? If your driveway is or parking space is dry then chances are the leak is a seep... A very very very slow seep... My 91 is seeping... But oil has never dripped onto my driveway... I'm still on the original pan gasket...
Most all of the series 1 engines aren't hard on the oil... Most burn almost nothing for oil...
The the Ford guys might think difrently, as I have seen a lot of the ford 3.0 and 3.8 V6'* beat the crapp out of the oil.... At one point my dad had a 2.9V6, after 1000 miles the oil was always black, and a quart low... Seems that we were always adding oil when we'd be on the road... Drive a 1000 miles and add a quart...lol
Neither of my Bonneville 3800'* have been that bad... The 91 uses no oil, it never has.... The 95 used 3/4-1 quart in 3000 miles.... But the new PCV valve seems to be helping that...
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When they do an oil change on a 3800, 4 quarts is reccomended... Especially in the series I 3800'*... But you have to take into account these words... " May require up to 1 extra quart when changing the oil filter ".... If they left that out it would explain why the engine was low on oil...
As for the leak, How bad is it in reality? Is their oil all over the ground where you park the car? If your driveway is or parking space is dry then chances are the leak is a seep... A very very very slow seep... My 91 is seeping... But oil has never dripped onto my driveway... I'm still on the original pan gasket...
Most all of the series 1 engines aren't hard on the oil... Most burn almost nothing for oil...
The the Ford guys might think difrently, as I have seen a lot of the ford 3.0 and 3.8 V6'* beat the crapp out of the oil.... At one point my dad had a 2.9V6, after 1000 miles the oil was always black, and a quart low... Seems that we were always adding oil when we'd be on the road... Drive a 1000 miles and add a quart...lol
Neither of my Bonneville 3800'* have been that bad... The 91 uses no oil, it never has.... The 95 used 3/4-1 quart in 3000 miles.... But the new PCV valve seems to be helping that...
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#3
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I need to clarify, the 1 quart defecit was before they did the oil change while I still had the 7,000 miles of synthetic. I am now tracking it and will see how much I will have lost a month from now, with this new oil change the level is just above the crosshatch.
Im still looking at the cardboard since I had to swap out the last one, it was SWIMMING in tranny fluid before. So far its just a couple of oil drips. Mayby it leaks while im driving.
I know my engine isnt burning much if not no oil at all because after 7,000 miles of synthetic it was at the same level I found it at when I first put the oil in. Even our 87' Taurus with 155,000 miles burns no oil at all (and the car starts with one stroke of the ignition after sitting on the dirveway below freezing after 7 weeks of inactivity!)
Im still looking at the cardboard since I had to swap out the last one, it was SWIMMING in tranny fluid before. So far its just a couple of oil drips. Mayby it leaks while im driving.
I know my engine isnt burning much if not no oil at all because after 7,000 miles of synthetic it was at the same level I found it at when I first put the oil in. Even our 87' Taurus with 155,000 miles burns no oil at all (and the car starts with one stroke of the ignition after sitting on the dirveway below freezing after 7 weeks of inactivity!)
#4
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Changing the oil pan gasket is a very easy repair. It will cost about $20 for the gasket and add a couple of bucks for some petrolium jelly if you don't already have some. This helps hold the gasket in place as it is raised into place and you start threading the bolts in.
It'* as easy 2 beer job.
It'* as easy 2 beer job.
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Originally Posted by Boreas
I need to clarify, the 1 quart defecit was before they did the oil change. I am now tracking it and will see how much I will have lost a month from now, with this new oil change the level is just above the crosshatch.
Im still looking at the cardboard since I had to swap out the last one, it was SWIMMING in tranny fluid before. So far its just a couple of oil drips. Mayby it leaks while im driving.
I know my engine isnt burning much if not no oil at all because after 7,000 miles of synthetic it was at the same level I found it at when I first put the oil in. Even our 87' Taurus with 155,000 miles burns no oil at all (and the car starts with one stroke of the ignition after sitting on the dirveway below freezing after 7 weeks of inactivity!)
Im still looking at the cardboard since I had to swap out the last one, it was SWIMMING in tranny fluid before. So far its just a couple of oil drips. Mayby it leaks while im driving.
I know my engine isnt burning much if not no oil at all because after 7,000 miles of synthetic it was at the same level I found it at when I first put the oil in. Even our 87' Taurus with 155,000 miles burns no oil at all (and the car starts with one stroke of the ignition after sitting on the dirveway below freezing after 7 weeks of inactivity!)
You got a good Taurus... I have seen some good some bad... I do like the 3.0 Vulcan.. But not the 3.8<--- I have a hatred of that ford motor...
I have seen some Vulcans destroy oil, But they do always start... They are good motors, I just have never cared for engine that beat the oil... Ford makes a few...lol
$400 does seem a bit extreme for an oil pan gasket tho.. Let us now what you find..
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Originally Posted by randman1
Changing the oil pan gasket is a very easy repair. It will cost about $20 for the gasket and add a couple of bucks for some petrolium jelly if you don't already have some. This helps hold the gasket in place as it is raised into place and you start threading the bolts in.
It'* as easy 2 beer job.
It'* as easy 2 beer job.
Would you conside $400 a bit steep for that job?
For whatever reason Rear Main keeps popping into my mind..
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#7
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Extremely steep. This is what the repair manual says for time:
Skill level: B
Warranty: 0.8
Standard: 1.4
It would make more sense if it were a rear main seal problem.
Skill level: B
Warranty: 0.8
Standard: 1.4
It would make more sense if it were a rear main seal problem.
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$400 for anything is too much for me.
Yea, its a Vulcan. This Taurus has been a sweetheart and had barely any problems. The steering system was swapped out for a new one last year, but given its sitting outside exposed to the elements its no surprise that the axel doesnt just pop off. :P
Yea, its a Vulcan. This Taurus has been a sweetheart and had barely any problems. The steering system was swapped out for a new one last year, but given its sitting outside exposed to the elements its no surprise that the axel doesnt just pop off. :P
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Originally Posted by randman1
Extremely steep. This is what the repair manual says for time:
Skill level: B
Warranty: 0.8
Standard: 1.4
It would make more sense if it were a rear main seal problem.
Skill level: B
Warranty: 0.8
Standard: 1.4
It would make more sense if it were a rear main seal problem.
If the engine is leaking towards the rear between the tranny and the engine, I'd say its time for a rear main seal...
I need to do my oil pan gasket on my 91... I hate seeps
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#10
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Originally Posted by Boreas
$400 for anything is too much for me.
Yea, its a Vulcan. This Taurus has been a sweetheart and had barely any problems. The steering system was swapped out for a new one last year, but given its sitting outside exposed to the elements its no surprise that the axel doesnt just pop off. :P
Yea, its a Vulcan. This Taurus has been a sweetheart and had barely any problems. The steering system was swapped out for a new one last year, but given its sitting outside exposed to the elements its no surprise that the axel doesnt just pop off. :P
I actually liked the 92-95 Taurus/sable... 94-95 for the improved transmissions... I drove the 3.8'* and the 3.0 Vulcans.... The 3.8'* had torque, but they were dead way too early on... No fun there... The 3.0'* well I liked hearing those flat top piston 3.0'* scream a little... Yes thats right that little 60* motor has flat tops...lol
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