Loud annoying idle - part 2
#1
Loud annoying idle - part 2
I posted a while ago on this, and I tested some pulleys by hand with both belts off. I think I found the culprit. Below is the video. The pulley to the left of the water pump makes A LOT of buzzing when turning it by hand (when the camera tilts, the pulley is the one above the water pump [but not the tensioner]). I'm almost certain it'* the cause. The tensioner pulleys themselves seem fine. This pulley is just a stationary pulley for the outside belt. When I tested this this past weekend at Bill'* in the driveway, Toasty could hear the noise from inside the garage! AJ doesn't seem to think it'* the PS pump either.
Can I just replace this one pulley, and if so where can I find it? Cheap? Easy bolt on? I'll try searching in the meantime. Thanks!
Can I just replace this one pulley, and if so where can I find it? Cheap? Easy bolt on? I'll try searching in the meantime. Thanks!
#3
I figured that thread is pushed back enough, and no real substance was found within it. Nothing much was said. This thread is complete on its own as if it was a new issue. I guess I could have continued it though.
#4
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From: Somewhere different on the globe every month....
Will the pulley move back and fourth? When it'* running, fire some wd-40 on it and see if it quiet'* down.
I have found that Napa is good about taking back parts within a couple of day'* if you bought does not fix the problem
I have gone through several */C pulley'*, both the guide and tensioner, since I have owned my car.
I have found that Napa is good about taking back parts within a couple of day'* if you bought does not fix the problem
I have gone through several */C pulley'*, both the guide and tensioner, since I have owned my car.
#6
Those are both standard 3" idler pulleys. But the metal replacements won't work. You need an OEM plastic pulley to insure spacing from it'* grooved twin on the same spindle.
Both pulleys come off together. I suggest replacing both, not just the one.
Both pulleys come off together. I suggest replacing both, not just the one.
#8
Spacing is produced at the bolting location with spacers. Pullies are made to a specific bolt spacing to ensure the pulley is centered upon replacement. I've changed out one of these pullies with a metal one before and not had a problem.
(the car was totalled 4 months later)
(the car was totalled 4 months later)
#9
I, too, have replaced the OEM plastic smooth pulleys with steel versions from the auto parts stores, and haven't had problems with the replacements.
But note that I haven't found a ribbed replacement in either plastic or steel that was the same size as the plastic OEM ribbed plastic pulley.
But note that I haven't found a ribbed replacement in either plastic or steel that was the same size as the plastic OEM ribbed plastic pulley.
#10
The two pulleys in question are seperated by a cast aluminum spacer. The backspacing and offset on both sides of each of these stacked pulleys is critical. These are not seperately mounted. There are TWO pulleys on one bolt with a spacer that you can't see between them.
Make sure the pulley width and offset is the same if you're going with steel. I personally prefer the plastic OEM pulleys and have had no issues with them. Including on the extra idler I had to add.
Make sure the pulley width and offset is the same if you're going with steel. I personally prefer the plastic OEM pulleys and have had no issues with them. Including on the extra idler I had to add.