Loose steering, scary as hell.
07-11-2006, 09:04 AM
#12
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Eric, if you have the same problem I'd look into your ball joints and TR ends as well. Air flowing under the car would not affect it until you're at significant speeds. I get this at anywhere from 75-90. That'* not fast enough.
When me and Bill replaced my left axle shaft the bushing on the BJ was pretty bad, and it was worse after we finished. This is why I suspected the BJs months ago, were probably in need of replacing.
The bushings on the TR ends however, do seem fine and they fill up with grease as they should.
Ball Joints are cheap, it'* just a matter if replacing them that is tough since drilling out the rivets is a PITA and I don't have an air chisel either. Do you have an idea of the cost of getting them replaced at a shop? Labor should only be a couple hours max I would assume. :?
Originally Posted by clm2112
Ok, time to get it up on jackstands, take the wheels off, and start looking. Check the rubber boots on the ball joints and tie rods ends. Anything with a cracked or torn boot should be considered toast. Take a look at the bushings, you can see them when they are gone (rubber all cracked or torn.) You can check for play in the rack while you are under there.
The good news: Ball Joints, Tie Rods, and Bushings are cheap. And at 110k miles on the originals, they are probably due for replacement (especially if they are sealed ones without grease fittings)
The good news: Ball Joints, Tie Rods, and Bushings are cheap. And at 110k miles on the originals, they are probably due for replacement (especially if they are sealed ones without grease fittings)
The bushings on the TR ends however, do seem fine and they fill up with grease as they should.
Ball Joints are cheap, it'* just a matter if replacing them that is tough since drilling out the rivets is a PITA and I don't have an air chisel either. Do you have an idea of the cost of getting them replaced at a shop? Labor should only be a couple hours max I would assume. :?
07-11-2006, 09:38 AM
#13
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I have replace the Tie rods, Ball joints and the Rack... Every little bit has helped...
The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL
After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..
Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...
You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?
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The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL
After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..
Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...
You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?
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07-11-2006, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
I have replace the Tie rods, Ball joints and the Rack... Every little bit has helped...
The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL
After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..
Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...
You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?
The old rack was in bad shap, the paly in it cause me to counter steer or constantaly correct... It drove me nuts and made for a long uncomfortable 1000 mile drive... Then I had to drive it back... LOL
After that I replaced the Rack and that improved the steering 10x'* over.... The last couple of trips that I have taken have actually been pleasnt to drive the long distances, I wasn't continually trying to correct..
Pete, How much play do you have with the car on the ground, with the ignition on or position before it so that the steering wheel will not be locked... You should feel resistance from left to right with no free play... If there is free play in the wheel something is worn out...
You do need to check the Ball Joints, Tie Rod ends and the shape of your strut mounts... Chamber can also affect what you feel... And like it was asked above, do you have any uneve tire wear?
Tire wear though, I did have some uneven wear on the left front tire, on the outside edge. It was worn down more than it should have. These were another member'* tires that I swapped, with the rims, so I don't know if it was alreaady like that. I did put that wheel/tire on the back. The two front tires now are even.
07-11-2006, 11:04 AM
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Boss it sounds like you are due for struts and possibly strut mounts all the way around... It may be time to start replacing parts... 
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07-11-2006, 11:06 AM
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Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
07-11-2006, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
Pete you been to Midas lately?
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07-11-2006, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Originally Posted by Technical Ted
Won't Midas check the car for free? If they want too much for the repair just tell them you'll have to come back when you have more money.
Pete you been to Midas lately?
(I also have a big leak in my brake line(*) and I have to refill the damn fluid every day. 
)My tires are at 35psi, so it isn't the tires. I'm betting I'm looking at around $1500 for struts, Ball Joints, new brake lines and tie rod ends. Sure would be nice if I got paid more. I may try the ball joints on my own anyway. Won't have the money for the parts until the 21st, so let'* hope my wheel(*) don't fall off on the highway before then!
Sorry for venting...
07-11-2006, 07:09 PM
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Bud if you lived closer we could tackle this stuff... I'd curse your car for a while but in the end all would be good...LOL
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07-11-2006, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
Bud if you lived closer we could tackle this stuff... I'd curse your car for a while but in the end all would be good...LOL