Locked out of trunk
#12
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take pin 85 on relay "D" (4th from the bottom in the right hand ip fuse block) and put it to grnd. that will energize the release relay and power the rear lid actuator.
you have to remove the passenger courtesy panel and look up into the dash on the fender wall for this fuse block. the relays are on the right hand side, "a" relay is at the bottom. there may be a blank in "c" position, so it may be the 3rd relay up, but it is the 4th position
you have to remove the passenger courtesy panel and look up into the dash on the fender wall for this fuse block. the relays are on the right hand side, "a" relay is at the bottom. there may be a blank in "c" position, so it may be the 3rd relay up, but it is the 4th position
#13
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one more step easier for you, pin 85 is the lower right corner of relay "D"
or you could apply 12v to the lower left corner of relay "D"
or you could apply 12v to the lower left corner of relay "D"
#14
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Thanks for all the assist sonoma. I've got a lot going on right now and won't be able to get back to this project until Tuesday the 11th. Both of my rides just got back from the tint shop today. I have to do brakes and general maintenance on my Volvo, and the Bonnie is going to get some minor dings smoothed out by a mobile body guy I hope this weekend, maybe next week.
Meanwhile I've got to pull 8 shifts in the next 5 days.
Tuesdays are project car days.
I think the location of the relays you've described is clear to me, but I'll take pictures and post them in the next few days as time permits to be sure.
Thanks again for all of the help.
Meanwhile I've got to pull 8 shifts in the next 5 days.
Tuesdays are project car days.
I think the location of the relays you've described is clear to me, but I'll take pictures and post them in the next few days as time permits to be sure.
Thanks again for all of the help.
#15
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Remove the hushpanel above your RF passenger'* feet. 2 or 3 screws along the bottom, one nut in the back. You'll see the relays on the base of the passenger side a-pillar then.
This is what you're looking for:
Ignore the white wire. Notice the door opening to the right? That'* the front edge of the RF door. Camera placed with the center console behind it, looking towards the a-pillar.
This is what you're looking for:
Ignore the white wire. Notice the door opening to the right? That'* the front edge of the RF door. Camera placed with the center console behind it, looking towards the a-pillar.
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sonoma_zr2 writes
take pin 85 on relay "D" (4th from the bottom in the right hand ip fuse block) and put it to grnd. that will energize the release relay and power the rear lid actuator.
or you could apply 12v to the lower left corner of relay "D"
Either of these methods will achieve the same result, correct? If that is so could I not just jumper one pin to the other?
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no, that will cause a short. one or the other. it is easiest to just short the bottom right pin to ground
yes, you have the right relay
yes, you have the right relay
#18
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Originally Posted by sonoma_zr2
no, that will cause a short. one or the other. it is easiest to just short the bottom right pin to ground
yes, you have the right relay
yes, you have the right relay
#19
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Mucho gracias to willwren and sonoma!
It worked perfectly, I got into my trunk, repaired the lock my co-worker messed up, and replaced the 134 LL bulbs in the rear of the car, which was why I was messing around in the trunk to begin with!
If not for you guys, I think I would have just made the problem worse and aggravated myself further.
Thanks guys!
It worked perfectly, I got into my trunk, repaired the lock my co-worker messed up, and replaced the 134 LL bulbs in the rear of the car, which was why I was messing around in the trunk to begin with!
If not for you guys, I think I would have just made the problem worse and aggravated myself further.
Thanks guys!
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