Location of A/C programmer
#1
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1996 Bonneville SE
I different air temps coming from the vents. Pass. side is fairly warm and driver side is cool.
From what I have read it is the A/C programmer lines collapesing and not directing the air to the correct place. I removed the glove box liner and didn't see the programmer. I then removed the under dash cover and found where the vac lines connect and they lead up behind the vent duct work. does this need to be removed?? This is what I have.
I different air temps coming from the vents. Pass. side is fairly warm and driver side is cool.
From what I have read it is the A/C programmer lines collapesing and not directing the air to the correct place. I removed the glove box liner and didn't see the programmer. I then removed the under dash cover and found where the vac lines connect and they lead up behind the vent duct work. does this need to be removed?? This is what I have.
![](http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp79/89Cabrioman/th_Bonneville001.jpg)
![](http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp79/89Cabrioman/th_Bonneville002-1.jpg)
#2
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I have been reading the DIY on cold air redirection again and was just wondering if this matters.
I have the pass.side airbag and the heater a/c temp controlls are manual selection *****. The DIY
leads me to believe that the a/c programmer should be right behind the glove box liner. Is this the case
or not??
Thanks
I have the pass.side airbag and the heater a/c temp controlls are manual selection *****. The DIY
leads me to believe that the a/c programmer should be right behind the glove box liner. Is this the case
or not??
Thanks
#3
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Looking under the dash, look at where those colored lines enter the clear plastic into a black box. That'* the programmer. You are right there.
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Bill
I followed the colored lines and they lead up top in the middle of the dash behind the vent tube. I can see the black box (top of it) but I can't get to it. Last night I was checking to air mix out and I decided to remove the adjustment arm and operate it manually to see if that made a diff. I let the car temp come up and noithing but cold air came out no mattet what position the mixer was in. I then checked the hoses. Upper and lower rad were hot and only ONE heater core hose was hot the upper one which is supply. This tells me the h/core is blocked. I 'am going to flush just the h/core alittle later. I just flushed the whole system last week and replaced the tstat and rad hoses. I went back with the green Prestone. Burped the sys and opened the air valve till just coolant ran out. Did this several times. Oh yeah replaced the waterpump.
I followed the colored lines and they lead up top in the middle of the dash behind the vent tube. I can see the black box (top of it) but I can't get to it. Last night I was checking to air mix out and I decided to remove the adjustment arm and operate it manually to see if that made a diff. I let the car temp come up and noithing but cold air came out no mattet what position the mixer was in. I then checked the hoses. Upper and lower rad were hot and only ONE heater core hose was hot the upper one which is supply. This tells me the h/core is blocked. I 'am going to flush just the h/core alittle later. I just flushed the whole system last week and replaced the tstat and rad hoses. I went back with the green Prestone. Burped the sys and opened the air valve till just coolant ran out. Did this several times. Oh yeah replaced the waterpump.
#7
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no wait! If your able to move the white arm connected to the air mix actuator...than the gear inside is broke for sure.
If your moving the rod....than thats fine. Because the rod is connected to the blend door. The door that directs the heat coming off the heater core.
Being able to move the white plastic arm...No good!
Being able to move the metal rod...No problem!
Get my drift?
I would still check your heater core for blockage.
If your moving the rod....than thats fine. Because the rod is connected to the blend door. The door that directs the heat coming off the heater core.
Being able to move the white plastic arm...No good!
Being able to move the metal rod...No problem!
Get my drift?
I would still check your heater core for blockage.
Last edited by Toddster; 02-11-2010 at 07:49 AM.
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The actuator will not move by hand...only when the heater temp is adjusted. This is with the metal rod dissconnected. I can move the white plastic arm by hand when the rod is dissconnected. Is that good??
#10
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If you can move the white plastic arm connected to the actuator...by hand...when the rod is disconnected....than no not good. The gear inside the actuator is broke. The white arm should only move when told to move by the AC programmer. It'* electronically controlled....the gear moves the arm when the programmer adjusts it.
Last edited by Toddster; 02-12-2010 at 06:50 AM.