First of all this is a wonderful site. My thanks goes out to all of you that take the time to help me. I'm trying to get this Bonneville in the best condition as I can. This 1992 SSEi has 124,000 miles on it.

Problem 1 - Oil Pressure Gauge
My oil gauge, once I start the car and sometimes while driving, will shoot all the way past the 120 mark. In fact while driving, if I hit the gas it'll usually go past the 120 mark. If I hit the gas, have it go past 120, and let it go back to 40 then it tends to stay in the 40-60 range for awhile. Faulty oil pressure sensor?

Problem 2 - Gas gauge
The gauge will fluctuate a lot. Normally between a quarter tank. It will also if I really fill it up, sometimes it will go all the way to empty on a full tank. If it doesn't go all the way to empty after filling it up then it will read past the full mark.

Problem 3 - Front left wheel clunks
I read about this. Its called memory steering I believe. It will clunk and pull towards the direction I turned to. I found out that it is not both front tires, only the front left one. I lubricated it and it helped it a bit. Any other possible ideas besides lubricating it every now and then? I found it odd to only be one wheel as it seems it is normally both for others with the problem.

Problem 4 - Air compressor (Inflater) doesn't start
With the key turned to give the car power (but engine off) I will hit the on button in my trunk. I will hear a click indicating the relay responding, but I never hear the compressor turn on. Bad compressor? If so how much are we talking?

Problem 5 - Power driver door lock stopped working
It used to work but it eventually stopped working. The remote won't unlock it but the remote does unlock the other three doors. If I open it with the key the other three doors unlock with the driver door. Basically every lock except that one has power.

Problem 6 - Air compressor (Air conditioning) won't start
The compressor does not turn at all. The pulley moves just fine in it. I tried jumping it and still no luck. I checked all the fuses under the driverside dash. Bad compressor? If so how much and is it very labor intensive?

Problem 7 - Grinding noise from engine
I am 99% sure its the supercharger. Is this normal for one? The drive unit went on me (ball bearing went to pieces) and I rebuilt it. The car still runs fine including giving adequate boost.

Problem 8 - The screen that shows the mileage and the digital car flickers
Not much more to say really. Its not a big deal i'm just being picky. Very rarely will it flicker. I noticed it will flicker on rainy days. In fact almost only on rainy days.

Problem 9 - Bad starter? Heh if someone can explain this one to me..
About a year ago it got so bad that I would have to try to start the thing around 30 times before it would start. That number was always random. Sometimes it would take 1 time and act normal or sometimes up to 30. I would turn the ignition and just hear a click. That was it. It wouldn't even turn. I would have to keep clicking it till it started. The only thing I did different that I think could affect this would be that I changed the cam sensor. (But the problem got better even before I changed the cam...read below)

Now a year later my car has been starting just fine (winter and now summer). I thought problems were supposed to get worse. However today I noticed that it clicked and waited about half a second and then started. Thus the reason why I bring this up just in case it is coming back.

Problem 10 - Rattling under the car
I'm thinking the exhaust pipe is loose although i'm not sure if it could be anything else. I only hear the rattling when I start the car up. I don't hear it at all really after driving it for a few mins. I'm just afraid this could be a bad cat. I looked under the car and the exhaust pipe does have some up and down play to it.

List of new parts:
-Gas tank and straps
-Fuel sending unit
-AC Delco O2 sensor
-AC Delco spark plugs
-Cam sensor
-PVC Valve
-Rebuilt SC drive unit
-Heater core
-All the radiator hoses
-180 drilled t-stat
-Air filter

I know this is a lot and I can make separate posts as I work on each individual problem if you guys wish.

Wow. I'll take a quick stab at this:

1. Typical symptoms of an oil pressure sender. It'* on the back of the engine block, passenger side. Best shot at it is through the passenger front wheelwell. Remove the splash shield after the tire is off, and you'll see it. I doubt the quality of 'aftermarket' sensors. Get AC Delco if you can afford it.

2. Fluctuation under normal driving conditions is normal. The 92'* had poor baffling in them. Get a 93-95 tank from an SSEi (unless you want to swap fuel pumps between the tanks). Reading empty after filling is a minor glitch. It'll go back to normal after you drive a mile or two and restart the car. My 93 does this too.

3. Put it on jackstands and start shaking and wobbling components until you find the worn component.

4. Check the fuses. There are two. I know 12 is one of them, don't recall the other off the top of my head. Disconnect the compressor connector and check for 12v on one of the pins with the inflator on.

5. Does it unlock with the switch inside? If not, the actuator may be weak or dead. Or simply need lubrication. Instructions for remvoving the door panel is in Techinfo, link at the top of the page.

6. Didn't we already cover the air compressor in #4? And what pulley? You talking AC?

7. Remove the SC belt and rotate, shake, wobble, and wiggle that sucker. Should be smooth, no 'slop', and no grinding. Any oil in it? Should be to the bottom of the fill plug threads.

8. Instructions for removing the instrument cluster and cleaning the connections is in Techinfo. Link at the top of the page.

9. Remove both battery cables from the battery. Pull the boots OFF. See all that corrosion hiding in there? Clean it all or (better yet) replace the cables. Now go after the other ends. Positive at the starter and alternator, and the ground locations under your ignition coils. Clean all connections, smear with dielectric grease, and reassemble. Typical symptoms of this. We get a dozen a month.

10. Shake your catalytic converter up and down and side to side. If it rattles, replace it. Check the heatshields attached to the 'tunnel' for the cat and muffler, as well as the one attached to the cat.

,,,and as far as the innacurate gas gauge goes...

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=39

Sounds like Wren is on top of everything else. In no time, you will have all those problems fixed. Then, like clockwork, new ones will pop up

Thanks a ton for the help guys. Also Will, i'm talking about two compressors here. The one in my trunk to inflate things, and then the toher is the air conditioning. Sorry for the confusion.

I just spent around $500 for a guy to replace my fuel tank, straps, and sending unit so i'll just live with the baffling.

When I rebuilt the SC drive unit it moved smooth as silk. Maybe I should check it again just in case.

The upper strut mount is what is hesitating to move and eventually "boinging" to its rightful place. How much are those?

The door lock does not open from the inside switch either so looks like the door panel is going to come off. I'll post here if I run into anymore troubles while fixing this stuff. Thanks!

Edit: Oh I almost forgot. Is it common for the rubber door seals to fail after awhile? I always have a wet carpet at the rear passenger side floor carpet. This has caused my carpet to fold upward. In fact it looks like i'll have to take the seats out and lay it all out again.

Door seals?

Your wish is my command. Here'* my beater:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ght=door+seals

Sun does it. My toy has been garaged too much and doesn't have the problem yet.

The AC Compressor check the fuses under the hood. One of them might be bad. At least it was that way for me, do you have freon in the system?