Leaking brake fliud
08-21-2006, 01:53 PM
#21
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they really aren't that hard.
You seem to have decent or better mechanical skills....so I would be pretty confident that you could do it.
You seem to have decent or better mechanical skills....so I would be pretty confident that you could do it.
08-21-2006, 02:01 PM
#22
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Uh, yeah this sounds like a line. It is a PITA to flare the ends with the line on the car, but with some practice it'* not extremely hard. If you want to get some experience give it a shot. I did mine about a month ago now. No leaks at all. Prior to fixing it, I drove for a couple weeks with no brake pressure (about 700 miles)..you'll want to fix this asap.
Along with the tools Pat posted, you'll need a tubing cutter ($5-8 at Advance). You don't want to cut the line with something that will crush it. The tubing cutter is a must. NAPA has a nice double flaring tool with all the adapters and a tool to ream the inside of the tube. It'* $55 w/ tax. Other places have it for less (Advance has one for $25). Make sure it has the adapters. Single flares will not work.
All the tools and parts you will need to do the job (depending on how long the line is that needs to be replaced) should cost less than $100. Probably around $80-85 at most.
Replacing the master cylinder is actually cheaper AND easier. I replaced mine a few weeks before I did the line. I'd rather replace a MC again that do a section of brake line.
Along with the tools Pat posted, you'll need a tubing cutter ($5-8 at Advance). You don't want to cut the line with something that will crush it. The tubing cutter is a must. NAPA has a nice double flaring tool with all the adapters and a tool to ream the inside of the tube. It'* $55 w/ tax. Other places have it for less (Advance has one for $25). Make sure it has the adapters. Single flares will not work.
All the tools and parts you will need to do the job (depending on how long the line is that needs to be replaced) should cost less than $100. Probably around $80-85 at most.
Replacing the master cylinder is actually cheaper AND easier. I replaced mine a few weeks before I did the line. I'd rather replace a MC again that do a section of brake line.
08-21-2006, 02:21 PM
#23
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Now what do you mean by section? You mean i might not have to dp the whole thing? So in that case you just what put a male on one end and female on the other somewhere under the car and join them?
08-21-2006, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbell83
Now what do you mean by section? You mean i might not have to dp the whole thing? So in that case you just what put a male on one end and female on the other somewhere under the car and join them?
a section is adding a new piece of line and cutting out the section that is leaking, you need to flare both the line.....and then have a fitting to join them...there is no male or femal fittings to be made...
08-21-2006, 02:23 PM
#25
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Originally Posted by mrbell83
Now what do you mean by section? You mean i might not have to dp the whole thing? So in that case you just what put a male on one end and female on the other somewhere under the car and join them?
08-21-2006, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Chris...PITA... trust me.
....
08-21-2006, 03:26 PM
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Sorry to steal your thread, but I am having a breaking problem too...
Mine was replaced a few times but maybe they used the wrong size. Brake pedal goes straight to the floor. Can you tell me what size mine will be or how to figure out Pat? If it is the right size the next thing to replace is the power booster.
Originally Posted by 1993 SLE
CAUTION....BE SURE to measure your MC before you go and pruchase a new one...you need the correct one, and there are 2 listed for every year Bonnne.....you will either have a 6" or an 8"