1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

L36 EGR from LIM.

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Old 03-17-2005 | 07:49 PM
  #41  
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Upper'* back! No water at .876.The 7/8 tubing is a light press fit without machining (that means cheap!) Now all I have to do is determine the correct lentgth, cut it off, and epoxy it in.

I'll post a few pix later, off to have a few green beers to celebrate.

[/b]WooHoo!
Old 03-18-2005 | 12:05 AM
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Begorrah! 'Tis good to be dry! What epoxy are you planning to use, Bob? JB weld is supposed to be good up to 600 degrees F. I could not find a higher temperature epoxy at any price. I don't know if the stuff in the KenCo kit has a higher rating. Harry, if you are still on this thread - do you know what the temperature rating is for the epoxy in the KenCo kit? Or the Pematex part no. so we could check it out?
Old 03-18-2005 | 12:42 AM
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I have JB weld in my toolbox, so I'm gonna use that. What with a light press fit and the epoxy, it'* not going anywhere.
Old 03-19-2005 | 11:19 PM
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Upper'* done!

And I think it will work. I'll post pics later.

Who wants to ship me their ruined upper (you know, the one you have under your tool bench) If I pay postage? It occurs to me I could repair these for cheap and do it on an exchange basis if I had a few to start the ball rolling.
Old 03-20-2005 | 12:32 AM
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Whoopsie! I thought this board allowed pix upload, but i"ve actually RTFD and not so. Can someone host my pix of this repair for me, please?

PM me.
Old 03-20-2005 | 08:17 AM
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Hey Bob, Congrats on the repair! A lot of us use a for-free web host site: http://www.photobucket.com it is very dependable.
Old 03-20-2005 | 10:33 AM
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Thanks, Bill. Here are the pictures.

Here'* the UIM after returning from the machinist. Note that at .875, there was one small breakthrough into water. I stuck a paper clip into the hole to make it apparent.



top view of first photo. I think instead of reaming the manifold, the machinist decided to ream me. Note that it'* a bit off-center. About .015, I'd say.



My dirtball sleeve sits atop the upper, ready for installation. I used some #320 wet-or-dry sandpaper to rough up the hole a bit to give the JB weld some tooth for good adhesion. Wound up with a very light press fit.



All done. Note that the sleeve sticks up into the airstream quite a bit. This is for the cooling effect by the rushing intake air mentioned in previous posts.



Next up: Get some gaskets, get GREASY!
Old 03-21-2005 | 10:05 AM
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Good stuff Bob. Did you goop it up pretty good to seal up that water port?
Old 03-22-2005 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mkaake
i don't really know. they've never released (and don't plan on releasing) the print for the composite upper, so I don't know what type of a fit it'* supposed to have. From looking at what I do have available, the egr stovepipe should get very slightly (Again, we're talking less than half a milimeter) smaller in the middle than at the tops.
Hey Matt, I found my old stovepipe from the '95 under a pair of gloves on the workbench this morning. The I.D. where the pipe stuck into the LIM is nearly consistent all around at .750" Above that, the pipe is consistently bigger by about .003 -.005" :?: When I lay it on a flat surface and roll it, it is a little HIGH in the middle. The pipe is a little bit out of round all the way up but the O.D. averages about .753 everywhere except at the bottom where it was in the LIM. Maybe someone whopped it on the top with a mallet and squashed it out a bit? Anyway, sorry for the delay.
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