Well regardless of anything I'll be there in March. But I'd be the dumbest person in the world to sell my car. A 120,000 mile engine that runs like new, NO scratches anywhere on the car (just a couple very small dings), the front half of the car is NEW paint, and the other half might as well be new because it looks like the new half. I have one rust spot that I can easily fix myself this spring. And mechanically have had no problems for 2 years besides my struts and maybe the wheel bearings need to be replaced now. But that'* nothing out of the ordinary for a 10 year old car.

But Jim'* right, when I find a black (or any color really) SSEi then I'll consider selling my car. But if I have enough money by then (which I probably will since this car will last 5 more years easily) then I'll keep it and still buy the SSEi. These cars can last as long as an import if taken care of. Plus most imports don't have any soul or style.

Anyway, this is my problem:

I went to my car this afternoon, started it. I let it warm up while I shoveled the driveway. After I was done (15 minutes) I got in my car and revved the engine a bit (this is in P). Damn clicking noise was still there. I looked around, tried to listen more to where it was coming from. It seemed like the evap cannister, but I was't sure. So I turn the car off and take off the intake, reach under the washer fluid resevoir, disconnect the evap cannister solenoid plug. Put the intake back on, got in my car and started it up, and hoped for the best. Get the SES light and rev the enigne....NO CLICKING NOISE! Damn that was the best noise....SILENCE. Connect everything back up, SES light goes away, rev the engine, and the clicking noise is back. So my ABS is fine. I drove the car around after just to make sure. And sure enough, my TC and brakes are working fine. Phewwww.

So Will, should I wait and see if this noise does go away sometime? It'* not like the evap cannister solenoid is causing any serious problems anyway. If you find out how much this solenoid is let me know. It should be an easy do-it-yourself fix I'd assume (easier then the ABS PMV assembly anyway)

The only thing I coudl see is that your gas tank would get pressurized, seems mine is doing that once and a while cause they figure my solonoid is getting stuck on instead of pulsing. Car still runs great and no lights come on. So I think I would either

1. find out what needs to be changed
2. Live with it till it gets really onnoying
3. Turn the stereo louder and forgeaboutit!!!

Ok, there are three different scenarios where the canister purges. Only one of them uses the solonoid, the other 2 use manifold vacuum. The problem is that the PCM isn't supposed to activate the solonoid until the engine reaches operating temperature, has been running for a specific amount of time, vehicle speed is high enough, and the TPS is higher than a certain point (not idle).

But yours opens and closes COLD, at IDLE, in PARK. Something is screwy. I suspect it'* shorting out somewhere between the PCM and the Evap can, and causing it to cycle. Inspect all your harnesses if you can.

For the time being, if you can live with the SES light, I'd run with it disconnected. There are 2 other vacuum modes it operates under, that should provide enough functionality.

But in addition, the sheer volume of the noise concerns me. Unfortunately, 94 and 95 are the only 2 years where the solonoid can't be serviced seperately. You must replace the entire canister to replace it. Bummer. It'* a cheap part for all other years (about 10 bucks). I'd suggest at this point finding or borrowing a canister from another 94/95 car. Or 'borrowing' a part from the wrecker, if they'll let you return it.

For your year, this can be an expensive 'shoot from the hip' repair attempt. A scantool may also shed more light on the subject. The only other thing I might suggest is putting a small amount of Marvel Mystery Oil in the input line coming from the intake/TB. The canister vacuum should draw it into the solonoid as the valve cycles, and lube the internal parts.

Pete, I'm going to move this down to Mech and Maint, 92-99. Maybe Andy and Mark can shed some light on this.

Thanks Will. The volume of the noise isn't that bad. I mean it'* louder than the slight ticking of the injectors I have going on, but it'* not like someone sitting in the passenger seat would be like..."WTF is that noise!!?" It is still pretty quiet. Plus I'm not sure if it helps, but it has only made this noise when the engine was completely warmed up (I never tried to see if it made the noise right after I started it)

I hope this won't lead to more problems though. But at least I can fix this easily myself though, whether it'* expensive or not, right? I mean if I could fix it for like $100 I'd be happy. Eventually I'd get around to it. As long as in the meantime it won't cause more serious problems that could in turn cause driveability problems.

I don't see it causing any problems at all. Try the marvel trick. I'm curious if that will quiet it down.

I'll try that. I'm assuming WD-40 is fine.

No, WD is just a water-displacing solvent, and evaporates too quickly. Use Marvel Mystery Oil. It'* commonly used as a gasoline additive, anyway, so as it recirculates back to the tank, it won't cause any problems.

Ok I'll go get some later. And where should I put it in the tube? At the pont where it connects to the cannister? Or doesn't it really matter?

Let me do some homework on that one. Go buy the oil, and I'll nail down a good injection point

Ok. Will $6 be enough to buy some? That'* all the cash I have on me as of now