If you didn't get a click, either you were wearing earmuffs and thick mittens, or the wrench is defective :P

In any case, you're a 1000+ poster, my man...don't you know what 88 in-lb feels like?

Glad you got the broken bolts out. Could it be they were rusty or previously weakened somehow (perhaps stretched from a previous over-torquing)?

I'm going to catch flak for this -- but I don't even use a torque wrench when we're talking about 88 inch pounds (about 7 foot pounds). I've never even seen such a light one, but I'm sure the gearheads have them. But I wouldn't trust myself to use a torque wrench that light, because I just don't have great skills with torque wrenches in the first place (although I'm getting better )

I use a 1/4 inch rachet and socket set and do it by feel. I use the correct pattern and go around lightly a zillion times. Then a day or two later, go around lightly again. But then I'm used to always going into (what seems like softish) aluminum motorcycle blocks. When you screw those up, you really cry.

So this morning I went to a wrecker at 730 and pulled 12 (just incase ) nice looking bolts off an old L27. Got my car done by 8:30. Now I'm off to work.

I just tightened the bolts down tight...but not breaking point tight. I'm scared of my torque wrench now. I'll look into that thing later....

Thanks guys...

Over-tightening those bolts with that type of gasket can CAUSE leaks just like under-tightening. The torque specs are specific to allow for the proper amount of gasket compression, evenly all the way around.

Although...reasonably by hand is better than breaking more bolts.

To test your wrench.. get a bolt that you know it higher than 88in lbs.. Wait a minute here.. How can a Canadian have inch lbs on a torque wrench.... are you sure you aren't using Kilonomomometers lbs?

Anyhow..joking aside. Get a bolt you know it tighter. Then practice. The wrench should click before turning the bolt.

btw - torsion bar and (most?) digital torque wrenches don't click, they just read the torque you're applying; you're supposed to know when to stop.

Captainmiller

Glad you were able to remove the broken bolts.

Do you have a link showing the Mastercraft torque wrench you have?

Hay stuff happens and this thread may help another member with the same or similar torque wrench.

I realize this. I'm not telling anybody they should disregard a torque specification. Given my situation I just did what I needed to do to get back on the road. I've popped the hood after every trip I took today to check for leaks and it is looking pretty good so far.

Here is the wrench. By no means is it a el cheapo wrench either.

Boosty, my Canadian torque wrench has both inch-lbs AND newton-meters on it.

I did the test on a lug nut. 100 ft-lbs right? I set the damn thing to 88 in-lbs and it just kept tightening the lug. I set it to 20 in-lbs...and guess what...it kept tightening. This is the FIRST time I used it. It is brand new. I beginning to think it is a ft-lbs wrench with in-lbs stamped on the side. I'm going to go down to crappy tire on my day off and see what they will do for me.

The Canadian Tire link does not work for me but searched CT store and found two part #’*.

Part # 58-8561-0 and part # 58-8557-2 and both look like nice torque wrenches.
Bet you just ended up with a defective wrench.

They all will continue to tighten, it just that once you hit the set torque it will click letting you know to stop.

if you have the 1/2 in drive them thats is 50-250 FT-lbs which is too big for valve cover bolts which needs in-lbs.

if you have the 3/8 drive, they are 30-250 in-lbs. I assume you have this one. Does it also have the scale in ft-lbs? My craftsman doesn't only in-lbs and n-m.