how to get off harmonic balancer bolt?
#1
how to get off harmonic balancer bolt?
Does anyone who has changed out their balancer have any ideas to get off the bolt in the center of the balancer? When I turn it, the crank just turns. I tried an electric impact wrench that is ok to about 200ft-lbs with no luck. I tried to jamb the pulley in different ways and can't get it stuck. The outside is separated from the inside of the pulley, so if I jamb the outside, the inside still spins.
Also, by turning the crank...did I mess up any timing or anything??
Thanks so much for the help!!
Also, by turning the crank...did I mess up any timing or anything??
Thanks so much for the help!!
#3
I would suggest you invest in some good air tools. If you get air tools though dont cheap out, I had a set of coleman air tools that worked, but when I got my new set of snap on air tools beleive me, you could EASILY tell the difference.
#4
do you mean the belt grooves when you say teeth??? If so, I tried that..but since the outer pulley part is detached from the inner portion..the inner piece still spins..... PITA!!!
Maybe I'll see what I can jamb witha crowbar!
Maybe I'll see what I can jamb witha crowbar!
#6
I have a question for you, I am taking off my balancer on my 94 ssei also, I got the bolt
off with no problem, infact is was only finger tight.
My question is what does you balancer look like, does it have a cover front of it with 3 longated holes, or can you see into it?
Mine is solid in the front, only the center hole and 3 longated slots, no place to screw in bolts for a puller or anything. I can not get mine off, the manual said it should pull right off with your hands but it will not.
off with no problem, infact is was only finger tight.
My question is what does you balancer look like, does it have a cover front of it with 3 longated holes, or can you see into it?
Mine is solid in the front, only the center hole and 3 longated slots, no place to screw in bolts for a puller or anything. I can not get mine off, the manual said it should pull right off with your hands but it will not.
#7
I finally got the bolt off tonight. I jammed the balancer by putting a 3/8" crescent wrench into one of the slots and jamming the other end into a frame piece. I had to put a piece of pipe onto my breaker bar then it finally came loose.
Yes, the balancer has the 3 slottted holes in it and the bolt the middle. You need to use a specia balancer pullerl tool to remove it. Go to Autozone, if youhave one, and loan out a harmonic balancer puller set. If you dont have autozone, you can buy the puller for $15-$30 at any auto parts store. You'll have to get different bolts b/c the ones they have are the wrong size. Take your new balancer with you to a hardware store to get the right size bolts. They fit into the holes behind those 3 slots. Get some that are 3.5-4.5" long. I think it'* like a 6 metric thread. When using the puller, put the center bolt back in a few turns so the puller doesn't mess up the threads. Hope this helps....guess we'll both find out if this procedure works
Yes, the balancer has the 3 slottted holes in it and the bolt the middle. You need to use a specia balancer pullerl tool to remove it. Go to Autozone, if youhave one, and loan out a harmonic balancer puller set. If you dont have autozone, you can buy the puller for $15-$30 at any auto parts store. You'll have to get different bolts b/c the ones they have are the wrong size. Take your new balancer with you to a hardware store to get the right size bolts. They fit into the holes behind those 3 slots. Get some that are 3.5-4.5" long. I think it'* like a 6 metric thread. When using the puller, put the center bolt back in a few turns so the puller doesn't mess up the threads. Hope this helps....guess we'll both find out if this procedure works
#9
-and here is "another two cents worth:"
Yes, there are threaded bolt holes down behind those three slots. But, my 1999 GM Service Manual says, 1/4" bolts, and my personal experience is this: I used three 3.5" long 1/4" FINE THREAD bolts with my three-slot puller, and it worked perfectly. (I don't think they are metric). Also, I found that using penetrating oil on the bolts, and running them in and out of the holes a few times first, before using the puller, sure did work good. It cleaned out the holes, so as to not ruin the threads.
Also, I tried to use an air impact wrench at first (-before I read the book) and it didn't work. And actually, I think it may not be the wisest thing to use an impact wrench anyway. Just think of the shock you are transmitting down the crankshaft, directly to all of the connecting rod bearings, wrist pins, pistons, rings, timing chain, etc. (I seem to remember that some engine assembly books warn against using a impact wrench on the crankshaft bolt just for that reason.) -but I've done it anyway,,,on many engines,,, Oh well.
So, I removed the silly little plastic guard covering the lower part of the flywheel (starter ring) teeth (-other end of the engine) and used a pry-bar in the starter ring teeth to hold the crankshaft. (a large screw driver would work just as well). Of course they make a "flywheel turning tool" which would probably work the best, but I still don't have one. -just have to use cave-man method- And oh yes, I broke that dumb little plastic flywheel teeth guard, so needless to say, I haven't bothered to get another one. (think I'll just leave the flywheel teeth "air cooled.")
Yes, there are threaded bolt holes down behind those three slots. But, my 1999 GM Service Manual says, 1/4" bolts, and my personal experience is this: I used three 3.5" long 1/4" FINE THREAD bolts with my three-slot puller, and it worked perfectly. (I don't think they are metric). Also, I found that using penetrating oil on the bolts, and running them in and out of the holes a few times first, before using the puller, sure did work good. It cleaned out the holes, so as to not ruin the threads.
Also, I tried to use an air impact wrench at first (-before I read the book) and it didn't work. And actually, I think it may not be the wisest thing to use an impact wrench anyway. Just think of the shock you are transmitting down the crankshaft, directly to all of the connecting rod bearings, wrist pins, pistons, rings, timing chain, etc. (I seem to remember that some engine assembly books warn against using a impact wrench on the crankshaft bolt just for that reason.) -but I've done it anyway,,,on many engines,,, Oh well.
So, I removed the silly little plastic guard covering the lower part of the flywheel (starter ring) teeth (-other end of the engine) and used a pry-bar in the starter ring teeth to hold the crankshaft. (a large screw driver would work just as well). Of course they make a "flywheel turning tool" which would probably work the best, but I still don't have one. -just have to use cave-man method- And oh yes, I broke that dumb little plastic flywheel teeth guard, so needless to say, I haven't bothered to get another one. (think I'll just leave the flywheel teeth "air cooled.")
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04-02-2010 08:38 AM