Help!... wheel bearing hub (Final update)
#21
nut
For future ref. I have found that breaking the taper on the shaft first saves a lot or trouble.
I just back off the nut while the car is still on the ground with the weight on the wheel,
then you rap the shaft with a brass hammer to break it loose, then your ready to go.
Of course the puller is the best way if it will break it loose. I also sometimes back off the nut the night before and spray penetrant in the shaft as experience tells me that some shafts just won't budge at first, others just come right out.
We all have been there and done that though.
I just back off the nut while the car is still on the ground with the weight on the wheel,
then you rap the shaft with a brass hammer to break it loose, then your ready to go.
Of course the puller is the best way if it will break it loose. I also sometimes back off the nut the night before and spray penetrant in the shaft as experience tells me that some shafts just won't budge at first, others just come right out.
We all have been there and done that though.
#22
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: Valley Forge, PA
Well, I'm a big fan of the hub puller kit, now. Reseated and rebolted the bearing hub. With the puller, broke the grip of that axle. Took out the torx bolts. Put the puller back on. With a combination of tightening the puller bolt and some prying on the sides, the hub came off...... minus it'* rear casing that ripped off and was jammed in the housing. That came out quickly with a steel punch and an angry hammer.
I was amazed at the super heated rust in the spindle grooves. No wonder it wouldn't come off. The machined cast iron areas on the housing didn't look too swell either. But nothin' some PB and a wire brush couldn't put to right.
In went the new hub. New rotors on both sides because the one on the other side was warped. Reset the calipers. And everything back together.
Kevlar bodysuit and a crash helmet and I went for the test drive. No more whirring in the left front and no more wobble in the brakes. No parts fell off, and she cruised smooth as silk. I was pumped.
Even Toolgirl thought it was cool. (She'* warming up to my new obsession)
Very much obliged for all of the help. Life is good here at BC.
I was amazed at the super heated rust in the spindle grooves. No wonder it wouldn't come off. The machined cast iron areas on the housing didn't look too swell either. But nothin' some PB and a wire brush couldn't put to right.
In went the new hub. New rotors on both sides because the one on the other side was warped. Reset the calipers. And everything back together.
Kevlar bodysuit and a crash helmet and I went for the test drive. No more whirring in the left front and no more wobble in the brakes. No parts fell off, and she cruised smooth as silk. I was pumped.
Even Toolgirl thought it was cool. (She'* warming up to my new obsession)
Very much obliged for all of the help. Life is good here at BC.
#23
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
From: Markham, Ontario, Canada
Good to hear. Your experience seems very similar to mine. My passenger side was a b**** to take off. The rust was bad. On both sides, the seals remained inside, which we had to remove with a punch. But at the end, everything worked out.
Hub puller is almost a necessity here. Right tools make the job so much easier.
Hub puller is almost a necessity here. Right tools make the job so much easier.
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