1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Help interpreting scan tool data

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Old 09-21-2005, 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jr's3800
I had some strange KS counts for a while... It would go from 0-300 and repeat as I drove... I don't know what I changed to correct for the problem... But while I had the oil pan removed I found the bottom end to be very tight, no bearing play...

I'd hate to think rebuild as a newer 99-00 or so engine would most likely be cheaper...

I'm still hoping that you don't have to go that route...
Me too. This spring I plastigaged my crank journals and they were all within spec. Close to the wear limit, but still OK. Oil pressure hot usually stays above 40psi. I know the balance shaft bushing is worn - should have changed it when I had the motor out. It'* only like $6! But my false KR I am pretty sure is coming from this valve train kind of tick noise. The KS counter moves right along with the ticks that you hear.

If it turns out that I have some serious internal issues, I will probably not rebuild - it'* just too expensive. Instead, I will look for a quiet Series II engine to swap in. I have R&R'd a lot of these, so it'* really no big deal for me. That'* why I am not too concerned about running with the sensors disconnected and the pcm on dummy loads. The car runs great! If it self-destructs, at least it will go in style. This car is quick!
Old 09-21-2005, 12:38 PM
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Those L36s aren't too bad when you get 'em running well. Even with 10* of KR, it probably feels better than it was.
Old 09-21-2005, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by big_news_1
Those L36s aren't too bad when you get 'em running well. Even with 10* of KR, it probably feels better than it was.
Not 10*KR - ZERO! Take a look at the "after" scan data. With grounded resistors on the connectors, instead of the knock sensors, the PCM thinks it is connected to knock sensors that are hearing nothing, ever. So it provides maximum spark advance all the time. That'* why it can be harmful to run that way. The computer will never hear detonation even when it does occur.

Under these conditions, if I drive gently (as I normally do) I doubt I will do much harm. The danger comes when you get your foot in it. And I must admit, it runs sooo much better now, it is hard not to let it go once in a while.
Old 09-21-2005, 05:37 PM
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I totally forgot you "spoofed" the sensors. Man, I bet you could clean my clock in a heads up race now!
Old 09-21-2005, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by big_news_1


I totally forgot you "spoofed" the sensors. Man, I bet you could clean my clock in a heads up race now!
I doubt it. You've got several mods on yours while mine is bone stock 'cept for the gutted air box. Someday when you're not busy give me a call - you can come over and compare it to the last time we took it for a spin. It'* probably still not as quick as yours, but you will definitely notice a difference!
Old 09-21-2005, 07:04 PM
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Will do. I'm not sure about my car being faster than yours, though..... I only ran a 16.078 when I took it to the track. I think something must be a little off..... but that'* a whole different story .

Glad you've got the car in more manageable form. I wonder how your mileage will compare?
Old 09-21-2005, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by big_news_1
Will do. I'm not sure about my car being faster than yours, though..... I only ran a 16.078 when I took it to the track. I think something must be a little off..... but that'* a whole different story .

Glad you've got the car in more manageable form. I wonder how your mileage will compare?
On a quick little test it calculated to 28 mpg. That'* no A/C, and no heavy foot. And only 80 miles - not a very good test. But I'm working on clocking the current tankful.
Old 09-23-2005, 02:30 PM
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New bolts came....

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Removed the rockers and carefully inspected them- all looked OK to me

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Cleaned out the bolt holes very carefully...

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Until they were nice and clean and dry...

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Torqued 'em up to spec 11 ft-lb + 90*

Fired it up, warmed it up.............tick....tick.tick............tick.. tick..tick

At this point, I feel reasonably confident that the noise is not exhaust or valve train. As light as the noise is, the only probablility I can think of is piston pin. That'* gonna be a lot of work and a lot of $. I guess I'll be keeping a lookout for a good SII engine.

Mileage update: the last 188 miles cost 9.5 gallons of gas - slightly less than 20 mpg. That'* what I get for sticking my foot in it, I guess. Reconnect the knock sensors? With bucket loads of KR, the PCM doesn't really let you use a lot of fuel. But I just can't stand how it runs. Maybe if gas hits $3 a gallon again.
Old 09-23-2005, 02:57 PM
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Good work on all of this thus far Bill. It'* too bad you haven't found the source of your tick, but you've been very thorough.

Cheers,
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