I got a 1995 pontiac SSEi completely stock. I was wandering what the boost gauge should read at idle. in my car you have to nail the gas to get it to read two lbs. boost. while i'm doing 80 on the interastate it reads -5. The only time it goes past 0 is when i go up a hill or really make the engine work hard. I really don't have much experiance with forced induction but my dads '78 turbo regal got boost when it ran WOT on the highway, but it had a series of lights that lit up to indicate boost. Is the boost supposed to always be in the negative range?

Another question i have is both the "perform ride" and "touring ride" lights are on at the same time. Is this normal?

My main problem is that the car will randomly shift out of overdrive and won't go back in. This causes the car to suck gas. I'll be going down the road at 65 and ill feel a slight jerk and the car'* tach will read 3100 rpm. With overdrive the car will be at about 2000 rpm at 65 mph. I've been getting terrible gas mileage because of this. When i get home and shut the car off it'll work right the next morning for a little while and then do the same thing again.

If anyone can offer any help or solutions to these problems i'd really appreciate it.

The overdrive problem is the same that I am currently having. I checked codes and came up with code 39 (Torque converter clutch). I havent started diagnosing it yet though. I have the rad on order and it takes precedence. I know what you mean when you say it sucks gas!!!

Your boost will go up with engine load. As you open the throttle, the intake manifold vacume will drop (no restriction in the intake to air flow). The wonderful thing about the supercharger is that it is stuffing more air into the engine (NA cars don't do this). This will create a boost. The boost will be propertional to engine speed and air restriction within the engine (you need restrictions to build pressure). If you don't think you are building enough boost it could possibly be your by-pass, which has been talked about alot in this newsgroup.

When I get around to figuring out my tranny problem I will let you know. PS does you torque converter clutch lock up at all when this happens?

JM

Both lights should not be on. Mine is the same way, means there is a problem in the system.

First thing, put your year and model in your signature. It'll help alot in future posts.
Second, Welcome to the Bonneville Club!
Third, at idle, you're in a manifold 'vacuum' situation just like a NA car. Should be near -10 (unless you're canadian, then it'* a huge number) Under average load, climbing a small hill, it should go about midrange to 0. Your car should be capable of reaching 8-9 psi at WOT under load. If it isn't, it'* USUALLY either a ristricted intake (dirty filter or MAF screen), bad Boost Solonoid (bypass or wastegate....a $30 part), or belt slip in rare cases.

I believe this is a fault condition. There should be an article in Techinfo for troubleshooting electronic struts.

For your transmission/OD problem, I'd try a trans flush/filter change...a full FLUSH. Unless you know how long the fluid has been there. Getting a scantool on your car to check TC slip and engage/disengage would be cool. Do you have access to one?

Unfortunately I don't have access to a scantool with RT readout anymore. I definetly know when the TCC locks up because the engine RPM willd rop by about 300-400 and with light throttle, very little rpm change shouls occur (only with an increase of drive speed). When the TCC is not engaged, the rpm will go higher without a great increase in speed (slippage). On way, when I get around to checking this is to ground out B pin on the diagnostic plug and listen for the TCC engaging (igntion on and engine off). The tranny was rebuit about 8000 kms ago and the fluid level and colour is fine. This was actually doing this before the tranny was rebuilt. Possiblity of connector, TPS or even the computer. I will get to the bottom of this. If I can rule out a few things then I may end up bringing it back to the tranny shop (I don't do trannies, (actually no-one should, thats just gross)) and let them have at it.

Trannies are black magic. Especially the FWD autos. After a rebuild, most people are lucky to have an almost normal tranny.

Struts - Touring/Sport ride

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/techinfo/?article=17

First off, thank you all very much for the suggstions you all have given me. The more help you all can give me, the better. Tommorrow me and my dad are going to service the tranny. I bought the car 3 months ago and i just found a recipt in the glove box saying that the transmission was serviced exactly 3 years ago. The car only has 65,000 miles on it. I'll start by flushing the transmission and changing out the filter. i hope that'll fix it. My gut instict tells me something is wrong with the computer though. if it keeps acting up i'll take it to the dealership that i bought it from and ask them what they can do about it.

You can't flush the trans on your own. You really need a FULL flush. It forces all old fluid out with new. That'* the only way to get it all. If you drop the pan and change the filter, you'll get less than half the fluid, and it won't flush your TC.

A flush would cost about $80.

go out on a road...(country road or a road w/ no cars) stop...start idling rolling...put the gas pedal to the floor...and waht is your boost go up to????


crazydriver868 does not tell people that over acceleration is a good thing...he will take no responsibility for any actions due to reading this post!